The In Bloom Bandana is a delicate knitted accessory made for spring and summer. It combines lightweight sport-weight cotton yarn with an open lace stitch, a gradually expanding triangular shape, and a clean i-cord finish. Although the finished piece looks intricate, its construction is organized around a repeating sequence that makes the project much easier to understand once the main techniques are familiar.
This pattern is worked back and forth, beginning at the bottom edge with only 5 stitches. The triangle grows through increases worked on the right side, while yarn overs and decreases create the lace design. The outer two stitches on each side are treated as i-cord edging throughout the triangular section. This gives the bandana a tidy outline and helps prevent the edges from curling.
The construction becomes particularly interesting at the finishing stage. Instead of binding off the triangle and sewing ties onto it afterward, the live stitches remain on the needle. A 3-stitch i-cord is knitted first, then connected directly to those live stitches. The i-cord travels across the bandana, incorporating the live stitches as it goes, and eventually continues into the second tie.
The original pattern is written for one size, but the length can be adjusted by adding or subtracting complete repeats. The stated finished measurements are 46cm (18in) in length without ties and 21cm (8.25in) in height.
At a Glance: The In Bloom Bandana
- Size: One size
- Finished length without ties: 46cm / 18in
- Finished height: 21cm / 8.25in
- Gauge: 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) = 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette stitch after blocking
- Yarn: Drops Safran in the color light rose (uni color 77), 1 ball
- Main needles: 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles
- DPNs: A pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs for the ties
- Notions: Tapestry needle, measuring tape, and scissors
- Construction: Knitted back and forth
- Starting point: Bottom edge
- Main shaping: Increases on right-side rows
- Edging: Two-stitch i-cord edging
- Tie construction: Three-stitch i-cord
- Approximate tie length: 30cm each
Why This Is More Than a Simple Triangle
At first glance, the project can look like a straightforward triangular scarf. The actual construction is more carefully engineered. The triangle grows symmetrically, the lace stitch changes across the repeat, and the edges are built into the fabric rather than added afterward.
The first and last 2 stitches form the i-cord edging. On every row, the first 2 stitches are knitted, while the last 2 stitches are slipped with yarn in front. This creates the visual effect of a narrow cord along the sides of the triangle.
The center of the bandana is where most of the lace activity takes place. K2tog, ssk, and k3tog are combined with yarn overs to create the decorative openings. At the same time, M1R and M1L increases are positioned around the edge sections so the overall triangle continues to expand.
This means that stitch counting is especially valuable. The lace motif may change internally, but the overall shaping remains controlled. Each specified right-side pattern row adds 2 stitches.
Materials for the Original Version
Yarn
The pattern calls for Drops Safran in light rose, uni color 77, using 1 ball. The sport-weight cotton yarn fits the lightweight character of the bandana and works well with the small needle size specified by the pattern.
Using the stated yarn is the simplest way to work toward the original fabric characteristics and finished measurements. If another yarn is substituted, the gauge and finished dimensions can differ, even when the same stitch instructions are followed.
Needles
The bandana itself is knitted using 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles.
The ties require a pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs. DPNs are particularly convenient for a narrow 3-stitch i-cord because the stitches can be slid back to the opposite side of the needle before knitting again.
Notions
The additional supplies are simple:
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
The measuring tape is useful not only for checking the final bandana dimensions but also for measuring the two i-cord ties, which are each worked to approximately 30cm.
Pattern Language You Should Know First
Because the lace rows contain several different decreases, reviewing the abbreviations before starting can prevent interruptions once the knitting is underway.
- k โ knit.
- k2tog โ knit 2 stitches together.
- k3tog โ knit 3 stitches together: slip the next 2 stitches knitwise (slip both stitches together, not one by one) to the right-hand needle, knit the next stitch, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch.
- M1L โ make 1 left.
- M1R โ make 1 right.
- p โ purl.
- RS โ right side.
- sl โ slip stitch as if to purl with yarn in front.
- ssk โ slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip the next stitch knitwise, return the 2 stitches back to the left needle, knit those 2 stitches together through the back loops.
- WS โ wrong side.
- yo โ yarn over.
- *-* โ repeat the instructions in between the asterisks the number of times specified.
The Key Pattern Notes
There are two pattern notes that are worth keeping visible while you knit.
First: Keep the I-Cord Edges Relaxed
The first and last 2 stitches of every row create the i-cord edging. Knit the first 2 stitches and slip the final 2 stitches with yarn in front. Do not tighten these edge stitches.
A tight edge can make the sides look constricted and can make the finished triangle less flexible. The pattern specifically asks for relaxed tension here.
Second: Do Not Tighten the Increases
Two stitches are increased at the beginning and end of every right-side shaping row using M1R and M1L before and after the 2 i-cord edge stitches. The pattern also states not to tighten the increased stitches.
If you prefer to simplify the increase technique, the pattern notes that M1L/M1R can be replaced with yarn over.
Starting the Bandana
The entire triangular section begins with just 5 stitches.
Cast on 5 stitches.
Set-Up Row
Set-up row (WS): k2, p1, sl2.
This establishes the two-stitch i-cord edges immediately. The center stitch is purled on the wrong side.
Set-Up Row 1
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, k1, M1L, sl2 (7sts).
The stitch count rises from 5 to 7. Notice how the two increases sit inside the edge sections rather than replacing the edge treatment.
Set-Up Row 2
Row 2: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
This simple wrong-side structure will return throughout the pattern.
Developing the First Lace Section
The following right-side rows begin to introduce the lace motif.
Row 3: k2, M1R, k2tog, yo, k1, M1L, sl2 (9sts).
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 5: k2, M1R, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, M1L, sl2 (11sts).
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 7: k2, M1R, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, M1L, sl2 (13sts).
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Continue with:
Row 9: k2, M1R, k3, yo, k3tog, yo, k3, M1L, sl2 (15sts).
Row 10: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
What to Watch for in the Set-Up Section
The first ten rows are useful for learning the rhythm of the project. The right-side rows progressively increase the stitch count:
- Row 1: 7 stitches
- Row 3: 9 stitches
- Row 5: 11 stitches
- Row 7: 13 stitches
- Row 9: 15 stitches
Each of these increases the total by 2 stitches. If your stitch count does not match one of these checkpoints, it is better to investigate immediately than to continue into the repeating section.
The Eight-Row Lace Rhythm
Once the set-up rows are finished, the main body is worked using an 8-row repeat. The rhythm alternates between detailed right-side lace rows and simpler wrong-side rows.
Pattern Row 1
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, *k2tog, yo, k6* to last 5sts, k2tog, yo, k1, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
The asterisked portion is repeated until the specified number of stitches remains. The row finishes with the lace sequence followed by the M1L and the two-stitch edge.
Pattern Row 2
Row 2 (WS): k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Pattern Row 3
Row 3: k2, M1R, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3* to last 7sts, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Pattern Row 4
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Pattern Row 5
Row 5: k2, M1R, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1* to last 9sts, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Pattern Row 6
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Pattern Row 7
Row 7: k2, M1R, *k3, yo, k3tog, yo, k5* to last 8 sts, yo, k3tog, yo, k3, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Pattern Row 8
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Repeat rows 1-8 7 more times or until you reach your desired length.
How to Approach Each Lace Repeat
There is no need to memorize the eight rows. In fact, because the four lace rows use different stitch combinations, following the written instructions is the safest approach.
A practical way to work is to identify the current row before beginning and keep track of each completed row. The even-numbered rows are particularly helpful because Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8 all use the same instruction:
k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
The right-side rows are the ones that require closer attention. They contain the yarn overs and decreases that create the lace motif, together with the M1R and M1L increases that continue the triangular shaping.
When you finish a right-side row, check the stitch count if the pattern gives a checkpoint. Remember that each specified lace shaping row increases the total by 2 stitches.
Understanding the Lace Movements
K2tog
The k2tog decreases two stitches into one and is used alongside yarn overs. This helps balance the stitch count within the lace motif while creating a directional decrease.
SSK
The ssk is another two-stitch decrease. The pattern defines it specifically as slipping one stitch knitwise, slipping the next stitch knitwise, returning the two stitches to the left needle, and knitting them together through the back loops.
K3tog
The k3tog is a three-stitch decrease used in the set-up section and again in Pattern Row 7. The pattern gives a specific method: slip the next 2 stitches knitwise together, knit the next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch.
Yarn Over
The yo creates the open spaces characteristic of the lace design. Because yarn overs are paired with decreases in this pattern, they should be worked exactly where specified rather than treated as interchangeable with nearby stitches.
When You Reach Your Desired Length
The main pattern allows the length to be customized. The original instruction is to repeat rows 1-8 seven more times or until you reach your desired length.
Once you have completed the required repeats, do not immediately bind off. Instead, work the two following rows:
Row 1: k2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, sl2.
Row 2: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Then break the yarn, leaving a 10cm (4โณ) long tail.
Set the bandana aside while keeping the live stitches on the needle. These stitches are essential for the next part of the construction.
From Triangle to I-Cord: The Construction Changes
At this stage, the main triangular fabric is complete, but the project is not finished. The live stitches will now become part of the continuous i-cord edging.
The first step is to create the first tie separately.
Cast on 3 stitches and do not turn.
Repeat:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue until the tube measures approximately 30 cm.
Do not cut the yarn.
Joining the First Tie to the Bandana
Transfer the 3 i-cord stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches.
Then knit the first two i-cord stitches and work ssk, knitting the last i-cord stitch together with the first bandana stitch.
This is an important transition point. The i-cord is no longer an independent tie. It is now connected to the main knitted fabric and will continue as the bandana’s edging.
Working the I-Cord Edging Across the Live Stitches
After the first joining step, transfer the first 3 stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
Then repeat:
*k2, ssk, transfer 3 stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches*
Continue until you have 3 stitches left.
This process is repeated across the bandana. The ssk connects the i-cord to one live bandana stitch at a time, gradually incorporating the triangular section into the border.
The Three-Stitch Checkpoint
One detail to watch closely is the point where the pattern says to continue until you have 3 stitches left. Those final 3 stitches are not discarded or sewn off at the edging stage. They become the foundation for the second i-cord tie.
Keeping this checkpoint in mind makes the transition much easier to understand. The project effectively moves from one 3-stitch cord, across the complete triangular bandana, and into another 3-stitch cord.
Working the Second Tie
Work the second i-cord tie as the first one:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue until the tube measures approximately 30 cm.
This time, once the tie reaches the desired approximate length, bind off, cut the yarn, and weave in the tails.
Tips for Better Stitch Control
Do Not Rush the Increases
The M1R and M1L stitches determine how the triangle expands. Because they occur on the right-side shaping rows, they are easy to overlook when concentrating on the lace instructions in the center.
Before moving to the next row, confirm that both increases have been worked. The source pattern explicitly notes that 2 stitches are increased on the applicable right-side rows.
Keep the Center Pattern Organized
The central lace pattern changes from row to row. Avoid assuming that a decrease and yarn-over combination from one row should be repeated on the next. Pattern Row 1, Pattern Row 3, Pattern Row 5, and Pattern Row 7 each have their own instructions.
Use the Wrong-Side Rows as Reset Points
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8 are identical in structure. After completing a detailed lace row, the next wrong-side row gives you a simple opportunity to check that the edges are still being worked correctly.
Keep the Measuring Tape Nearby
The project includes several measurements worth checking: the stated finished length without ties is 46cm (18in), the height is 21cm (8.25in), and each tie is approximately 30cm. Having the measuring tape available prevents unnecessary guessing.
What to Do If the Edges Look Uneven
Uneven edges can often be related to tension rather than the lace instructions themselves. The pattern specifically says not to tighten the edge stitches and not to tighten the increased stitches.
When working the first 2 stitches, keep the tension natural. At the opposite edge, slip the final 2 stitches with yarn in front without pulling them excessively tight. Maintaining this relaxed approach throughout the project helps the i-cord structure develop consistently.
What to Do If You Lose Your Place
First, identify whether you are on the right side or wrong side. The pattern alternates between detailed lace rows and simple purl rows. Once the side is identified, compare your current row with the written instructions rather than trying to reconstruct the pattern from the appearance of the fabric alone.
If you are in the main repeat, identify whether you are on Row 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8. The four even-numbered rows are particularly recognizable because they all use:
k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
For the lace rows, check the exact sequence of k2tog, yo, ssk, and k3tog. Do not substitute one lace row for another simply because the fabric looks similar.
Using the Pattern’s Size Flexibility
The original design is one size, but the pattern intentionally allows the length to be adjusted. The main body can be made longer or shorter by adding or subtracting repeats of the 8-row pattern.
This is useful because the triangular construction does not require a completely different set of instructions for every possible length. The core lace repeat remains the same while the number of times it is worked changes.
If you are making the stated version, the target measurements are 46cm (18in) without ties and 21cm (8.25in) in height. If you modify the length, use the measuring tape to monitor the project rather than relying solely on the number of rows.
Gauge and Why Blocking Matters
The pattern specifies a gauge of 24 stitches x 32 rows over 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) in stockinette stitch after blocking.
Because the gauge is stated after blocking, it should be evaluated under the same condition when possible. Blocking can change the dimensions of knitted fabric, and lace in particular may open and settle during finishing.
Gauge is most important if you want the finished project to correspond closely to the stated measurements. If your gauge is significantly different, the finished triangle can be larger or smaller than expected.
Finishing the Bandana
Once the second i-cord has reached approximately 30cm, bind off and cut the yarn. Weave in the tails using the tapestry needle.
The original pattern does not require complicated assembly because the ties and edging are integrated into the knitting. This is one of the project’s advantages: the final finishing stage is primarily about securing the yarn ends and allowing the fabric to settle into its final shape.
Quick Troubleshooting Reference
The Stitch Count Is Wrong
Check the most recent right-side shaping row. The pattern adds 2 stitches on the specified shaping rows. Look for a missing M1R or M1L, or check whether a decrease was accidentally worked differently from the written instruction.
The Triangle Is Not Growing Evenly
Compare the two sides of the fabric and check the placement of the M1R and M1L increases. Both are part of the shaping structure and should remain on their specified sides of the center pattern.
The Lace Looks Too Tight
Check whether the yarn overs have been worked correctly and whether the edge or increase stitches have been pulled too tightly. The pattern specifically advises against tightening those stitches.
The First Tie Does Not Join Correctly
Make sure the first i-cord is approximately 30cm and that the yarn has not been cut. Transfer the 3 i-cord stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches, then work the first two i-cord stitches followed by ssk using the last i-cord stitch and the first bandana stitch.
The Edging Does Not Progress Across the Triangle
Follow the repeating edging sequence exactly: k2, ssk, then transfer the 3 stitches back to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches. Continue until only 3 stitches remain.
Project Checklist
- 1 ball of Drops Safran, light rose, uni color 77
- 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles
- A pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
- Cast on 5 stitches
- Complete Set-up Row through Row 10
- Work the 8-row lace pattern
- Repeat rows 1-8 seven more times or until desired length
- Work the two final rows
- Leave a 10cm (4โณ) yarn tail when breaking the yarn
- Keep the bandana stitches live
- Make the first 3-stitch i-cord
- Work it to approximately 30cm
- Join it to the bandana
- Continue the i-cord edging
- Stop when 3 stitches remain
- Work the second tie to approximately 30cm
- Bind off and weave in the tails
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this a beginner-friendly knitting project?
The bandana is a relatively compact project, but it does include lace decreases, yarn overs, M1R, M1L, and i-cord construction. Knitters who are comfortable with these techniques should find the pattern easier to follow. For newer knitters, the repeating structure provides a useful way to practice them in a small project.
Is the bandana knitted in the round?
No. The triangular bandana is knitted back and forth.
Where does the knitting begin?
The project starts at the bottom edge with a cast-on of 5 stitches and grows upward through increases on the right-side rows.
What makes the edges neat?
The first and last 2 stitches form an i-cord edging. The first 2 stitches are knitted and the final 2 stitches are slipped with yarn in front on every row.
How many stitches are used for the i-cord ties?
Each tie is worked with 3 stitches.
How long should the ties be?
The first tie is knitted until the tube measures approximately 30cm. The second tie is also knitted to approximately 30cm.
Can the size be customized?
Yes. The pattern states that you can add or subtract repeats to modify the size. The main repeat consists of rows 1-8.
What are the original finished measurements?
The one-size version measures 46cm (18in) in length without ties and 21cm (8.25in) in height.
Can I replace M1L and M1R?
The pattern notes that if you want to simplify the pattern, you can replace M1L/M1R with yo.
Final Finishing Advice
Before considering the project complete, take a moment to inspect the edges and ties. The i-cord border should appear neat and continuous around the triangular fabric. The two ties should both be approximately 30cm long, and the final yarn tails should be woven in securely.
If you are checking the original dimensions, compare the bandana with the stated 46cm (18in) length without ties and 21cm (8.25in) height. Remember that the gauge given in the pattern is measured after blocking, so the final fabric should be evaluated after the appropriate finishing process rather than relying exclusively on measurements taken while the knitting is still on the needles.
Final Thoughts
The In Bloom Bandana is an excellent example of how a small knitted accessory can combine shaping, lace, and finishing techniques into one cohesive design. The project begins with an uncomplicated 5-stitch cast-on, but the fabric quickly develops through balanced increases and carefully arranged lace movements.
The eight-row repeat gives the main body its decorative character while keeping the overall construction predictable. The wrong-side rows provide natural pauses between the more detailed lace rows, and the stitch-count checkpoints make it easier to identify problems before they become difficult to correct.
The most distinctive feature is the continuous i-cord construction. The first tie begins as a simple 3-stitch tube, then becomes the starting point for the edging. The edging incorporates the live bandana stitches one by one until the final 3 stitches transition into the second tie. This approach creates a clean, cohesive finish without requiring a separately attached border.
For the best result, focus on relaxed tension around the i-cord edges and increases, follow every lace row carefully, and use the provided measurements and stitch counts as checkpoints. The pattern also gives you the freedom to adjust the length by changing the number of complete 8-row repeats.
With just 1 ball of the specified Drops Safran yarn, 3mm needles, and a small selection of notions, the In Bloom Bandana offers a manageable way to create a polished handmade accessory. The combination of cotton yarn, open lace, and i-cord finishing makes it especially well suited to a lightweight spring or summer wardrobe.
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