The In Bloom Bandana is a delicate spring and summer knitting project designed to combine decorative lace with a clean, practical finish. Its triangular shape grows gradually from the bottom edge, while neat i-cord borders keep the sides tidy and help prevent unwanted curling. Once the knitted triangle reaches the required length, the project is completed with two simple i-cord ties, creating an accessory that can be comfortably secured around the head or styled in different ways.
This pattern uses sport-weight cotton yarn and is worked back and forth. Although the finished piece has a graceful lace appearance, the construction is based on a clearly repeated eight-row rhythm, making it easier to understand once the first few rows are established. The shaping is also consistent: two stitches are increased on every right-side pattern row, one near each edge.
Project Overview
The bandana is worked from the bottom upward. You begin with only 5 stitches, establish the first lace section, and then continue with the main eight-row pattern repeat. As the work progresses, the right-side rows add two stitches, causing the triangular fabric to expand.
The first and last 2 stitches of every row create an i-cord edging. This detail is important to the construction rather than being merely decorative. The edge gives the bandana a more finished appearance and helps keep the knitted fabric from curling.
After the triangular portion reaches the desired length, the increases stop. Two simple rows create the transition into the finishing stage. The first i-cord tie is then attached directly to the live stitches of the bandana using ssk. The second tie is worked after the opposite edge is reached.
Finished Measurements and Gauge
- Size: One size
- Finished length without ties: 46 cm / 18 in
- Height: 21 cm / 8.25 in
- Gauge: 24 stitches x 32 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in in stockinette stitch after blocking
The measurements describe the finished bandana without including the two approximately 30 cm ties. Because this accessory is designed to be worn as a flexible head covering, the ties provide the final adjustment around the head.
Yarn, Needles, and Notions
The original pattern uses Drops Safran in light rose, uni color 77. One ball is required.
- Yarn: Drops Safran, light rose, uni color 77
- Quantity: 1 ball
- Main needles: 3 mm / US 2.5 knitting needles
- Tie needles: Pair of 3 mm / US 2.5 DPNs
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
Keeping the recommended needle size and checking your gauge after blocking are useful because the pattern’s lace structure depends on the relationship between stitch count and fabric dimensions.
Abbreviations You Will Use
Before beginning, it is worth becoming comfortable with the abbreviations used throughout the pattern. Several of them appear repeatedly in the lace rows.
- k โ knit.
- k2tog โ knit 2 stitches together.
- k3tog โ knit 3 stitches together: slip the next 2 stitches knitwise (slip both stitches together, not one by one) to the right-hand needle, knit the next stitch, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch.
- M1L โ make 1 left.
- M1R โ make 1 right.
- p โ purl.
- RS โ right side.
- sl โ slip stitch as if to purl with yarn in front.
- ssk โ slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip the next stitch knitwise, return the 2 stitches back to the left needle, knit those 2 stitches together through the back loops.
- WS โ wrong side.
- yo โ yarn over.
- *-* โ repeat the instructions in between the asterisks the number of times specified.
Understand the Two Edge Rules First
Two construction details remain consistent throughout the bandana: the i-cord edging and the increases.
The i-Cord Edging
At the beginning of every row, knit the first 2 stitches. At the end of every row, slip the last 2 stitches with yarn in front. Do not tighten the edge stitches.
These four stitches effectively frame the lace fabric. It is important not to pull them tightly because doing so can make the side edge narrower than intended and may interfere with the clean movement of the fabric.
The Increases
On each right-side increase row, 2 stitches are added: one after the first 2 i-cord edge stitches and one before the final 2 i-cord edge stitches. M1R is used on the left side of the work and M1L on the right side according to the written instructions.
The source also gives an optional simplification: M1L and M1R can be replaced with yarn overs. If using that option, remember that the resulting appearance can differ from a traditional make-one increase, so choose one approach and apply it consistently.
Begin With the Five-Stitch Foundation
The bandana begins with a very small number of stitches. Cast on 5 stitches.
The first row is a wrong-side setup row. Work:
Set-up row (WS): k2, p1, sl2.
This establishes the edge treatment immediately. The central stitch is worked as a purl while the first two stitches are knitted and the final two are slipped.
Building the Initial Lace Shape
The first ten rows gradually establish the triangular structure and introduce the lace movements that will later become part of the repeating section. Keep an eye on the stitch counts at the end of the specified right-side rows. These counts are useful checkpoints and can help identify an accidental missed increase or decrease before the work becomes larger.
Rows 1โ2
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, k1, M1L, sl2 (7sts).
Row 2: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
After Row 1, there should be 7 stitches. The two new stitches are created around the central knitted stitch while the two edge stitches at each side retain their i-cord function.
Rows 3โ4
Row 3: k2, M1R, k2tog, yo, k1, M1L, sl2 (9sts).
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 3 introduces the first combination of decrease and yarn over. The k2tog and yo work together as a lace unit, while the M1R and M1L continue the outer shaping.
Rows 5โ6
Row 5: k2, M1R, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, M1L, sl2 (11sts).
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
The stitch count reaches 11 after Row 5. Notice that the right-side lace row now contains both k2tog and ssk, balanced around yarn overs.
Rows 7โ8
Row 7: k2, M1R, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, M1L, sl2 (13sts).
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
At the end of Row 7, there are 13 stitches. The central knitted section has become wider, while the outside shaping continues in exactly the same way.
Rows 9โ10
Row 9: k2, M1R, k3, yo, k3tog, yo, k3, M1L, sl2 (15sts).
Row 10: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 9 introduces the three-stitch decrease, k3tog. At this point, the initial lace sequence has established the visual language used by the main pattern section.
The Main Eight-Row Lace Sequence
Once the setup section is complete, the bandana moves into its principal lace rhythm. The most useful way to approach this section is to treat Rows 1โ8 as one complete unit. Every wrong-side row has the same basic edge-and-purl structure, while the right-side rows contain the lace changes and two increases.
Main Row 1
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, *k2tog, yo, k6* to last 5sts, k2tog, yo, k1, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
The asterisked section is repeated until the specified point near the end of the row. The two shaping increases are outside the main lace repeat.
Main Row 2
Row 2 (WS): k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
This wrong-side row provides a consistent reset between the decorative right-side rows.
Main Row 3
Row 3: k2, M1R, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3* to last 7sts, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
This row introduces paired yarn overs and decreases around the center of the lace repeat. Work the repeat carefully and preserve the two shaping increases.
Main Row 4
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Main Row 5
Row 5: k2, M1R, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1* to last 9sts, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
The middle section becomes more open and balanced through the placement of the yarn overs and decreases. As with every right-side shaping row, the stitch count increases by 2.
Main Row 6
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Main Row 7
Row 7: k2, M1R, *k3, yo, k3tog, yo, k5* to last 8 sts, yo, k3tog, yo, k3, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
This is the row in the main repeat that uses k3tog. Because a three-stitch decrease requires careful manipulation, it can be useful to pause and confirm the orientation of the stitches before completing the decrease.
Main Row 8
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Rows 1โ8 form the complete main lace repeat.
How Many Times Should the Repeat Be Worked?
Repeat Rows 1โ8 7 more times or until desired length.
This wording gives the pattern flexibility. The standard instruction is to work the eight-row sequence seven additional times, but the construction also allows the length to be modified. The source explains that the size can be changed by adding or subtracting repeats.
When adjusting the length, keep the repeat itself intact rather than stopping randomly in the middle of the eight-row sequence. Completing full repeats makes it much easier to maintain the intended lace rhythm and move cleanly into the final shaping rows.
Stitch-Count Checkpoints for the Lace Section
One of the easiest ways to make lace knitting less stressful is to use the written stitch counts as checkpoints. The beginning section gives explicit counts of 7, 9, 11, 13, and 15 stitches on its right-side shaping rows. The main pattern rows each state that 2 stitches are increased.
If the stitch count does not behave as expected, check the previous right-side row before continuing. Common causes include accidentally skipping an M1R or M1L, forgetting a yarn over, working a decrease incorrectly, or accidentally tightening an edge stitch.
It is also helpful to remember that a yarn over is an intentional increase within the lace structure, while the decreases balance those openings within the decorative motif. The outer M1R and M1L are separate shaping increases that cause the entire triangle to grow.
Transition From the Triangle to the Ties
Once the desired bandana length has been reached, the project changes from decorative repeated shaping to a simple finishing section.
Row 1: k2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, sl2.
Row 2: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Then break the yarn, leaving a 10 cm (4โณ) tail. Set the bandana aside while leaving the stitches on the needle as they are.
Do not bind off the bandana at this point. The live stitches are needed for the i-cord edging connection.
Making the First I-Cord Tie
The ties are worked separately from the triangular lace fabric and then incorporated into the edge construction. Use the pair of 3 mm / US 2.5 DPNs for the i-cord.
Cast on 3 stitches. Do not turn.
Then work:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue knitting the i-cord until the tube measures approximately 30 cm. Do not cut the yarn.
The instruction not to turn is essential to the nature of an i-cord. Instead, after knitting the three stitches, slide the stitches back to the other end of the needle and knit them again. This repeated movement creates the narrow tubular cord.
Connecting the First Tie to the Bandana
Now comes the construction step that connects the tie to the live bandana stitches.
Transfer the 3 i-cord stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
Work:
Knit the first two i-cord stitches, ssk (knit last i-cord stitch together with first bandana stitch).
Then transfer the first 3 stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches.
Repeat the following instruction:
*k2, ssk, transfer 3 stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches*
Continue until 3 stitches are left.
The ssk operation is what gradually joins the i-cord to the edge of the bandana. Rather than treating the cord and bandana as two completely separate pieces, this method incorporates the edge stitches as you progress.
Work the Second Tie
Once the i-cord edging reaches the opposite side and only 3 stitches remain, work the second tie in the same basic manner as the first.
Repeat:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue until the second tube measures approximately 30 cm.
Bind off, cut the yarn, and weave in the tails.
Tips for Keeping the Lace Even
Lace knitting rewards careful counting more than speed. The In Bloom Bandana contains yarn overs, k2tog, ssk, and k3tog, so a missed movement can change the appearance of an entire motif.
- Read the complete row before beginning it.
- Identify the two edge stitches that belong to the i-cord before working into the lace section.
- Keep the M1R and M1L increases separate from the lace repeat in your mind.
- Use the written stitch counts as checkpoints where they are provided.
- Do not tighten the i-cord edge stitches.
- When working a repeat, pay attention to the phrase โto lastโ because the final stitches are worked separately from the asterisked section.
It can also help to place a removable marker mentally or physically between the edge stitches and the lace area. This does not alter the pattern; it simply makes the boundaries of the repeated section easier to see.
Common Troubleshooting Situations
The Edge Looks Tight
The pattern specifically instructs you not to tighten the edge stitches. If the sides are pulling inward, examine how you are knitting the first 2 stitches and slipping the final 2 stitches. Let these stitches move naturally rather than deliberately pulling the working yarn after every edge movement.
The Stitch Count Is Wrong
Return to the most recent right-side row where an increase was expected. Check that both M1R and M1L were worked. In the main pattern, each right-side lace row states โ2sts increased.โ If one increase is missing, the following repeat can become difficult to execute correctly.
The Lace Motif Does Not Look Symmetrical
Check the decrease and yarn-over combinations. The pattern uses k2tog, ssk, and k3tog in specific positions. Also confirm that you did not accidentally work an additional decrease or miss a yarn over.
The I-Cord Looks Uneven
Keep the movement consistent: slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle, then knit 3. Avoid turning the work. The i-cord is intentionally narrow, so small differences in tension can be visible.
Blocking the Finished Bandana
The stated gauge is measured in stockinette stitch after blocking, and blocking is also helpful for revealing the lace structure. Once the knitting is finished and the yarn tails have been woven in, the fabric can be gently shaped so that the triangular outline and lace openings become easier to see.
Use the finished measurements as your reference: approximately 46 cm / 18 in in length without ties and 21 cm / 8.25 in in height.
Because the source provides specific finished measurements but does not prescribe a particular blocking method, avoid treating any unlisted blocking technique as a required part of the pattern. The important point is to allow the finished lace fabric to settle while preserving the intended triangular shape.
A Practical Final Checklist
- Confirm that the bandana was started with 5 stitches.
- Check the initial stitch-count checkpoints: 7, 9, 11, 13, and 15 stitches.
- Confirm that the first and last 2 stitches are treated as the i-cord edging.
- Confirm that the main lace sequence is worked in Rows 1โ8.
- Repeat Rows 1โ8 7 more times or until desired length.
- Complete the final two transition rows.
- Break the yarn with a 10 cm (4โณ) tail.
- Keep the bandana stitches live on the needle.
- Make the first 3-stitch i-cord tie to approximately 30 cm.
- Join the i-cord to the bandana using the specified ssk construction.
- Continue the edging until 3 stitches remain.
- Make the second i-cord tie to approximately 30 cm.
- Bind off, cut the yarn, and weave in tails.
- Check the final measurements after blocking.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the In Bloom Bandana one size?
Yes. The pattern is written for one size, with finished measurements of 46 cm / 18 in in length without ties and 21 cm / 8.25 in in height.
Can the size be changed?
Yes. The source explains that the size can be modified by adding or subtracting repeats. The main lace section is worked in eight-row repeats, so adjustments should be made by modifying the number of complete repeats rather than changing individual technical rows.
What yarn is used?
The pattern uses one ball of Drops Safran in light rose, uni color 77.
What needle size is required?
The main bandana uses 3 mm / US 2.5 knitting needles. A pair of 3 mm / US 2.5 DPNs is used for the ties.
How long are the ties?
Each tie is knitted until the tube measures approximately 30 cm.
Why are the last two stitches slipped?
The final 2 stitches are slipped with yarn in front to form part of the i-cord edging. Together with knitting the first 2 stitches of every row, this creates a neat border and helps prevent curling.
Can yarn overs replace M1R and M1L?
The source provides this as an optional simplification. M1L and M1R may be replaced with yo.
Do I bind off the bandana before making the first tie?
No. After the final two bandana rows, break the yarn leaving a 10 cm (4โณ) tail and leave the stitches on the needle. Those live stitches are needed for the i-cord edging connection.
Final Finishing Advice
The strength of the In Bloom Bandana lies in the way its decorative and structural elements work together. The lace creates the open spring-like texture, the repeated increases establish the triangular silhouette, and the i-cord edges provide a controlled border without requiring a separate edging treatment.
For the cleanest result, give particular attention to the transitions. The beginning is small and simple, the middle grows through the eight-row lace rhythm, and the ending deliberately stops the decorative shaping before the ties are attached. Keeping these three phases distinct makes the project much easier to follow.
Most importantly, do not rush the lace rows. The pattern gives you several useful checkpoints, and the repeated structure becomes increasingly familiar after the first complete repeat. Once the triangle has reached the desired length, the i-cord construction provides a straightforward way to turn the knitted fabric into a wearable accessory.
Quick Reference for the Complete Construction
- Cast on 5 stitches.
- Work the set-up row on the WS.
- Complete the initial Rows 1โ10 and their stated stitch counts.
- Work the eight-row main lace pattern.
- Repeat Rows 1โ8 7 more times or until desired length.
- Work the final increase row and the following WS row.
- Break yarn, leaving a 10 cm (4โณ) tail, and keep the live stitches on the needle.
- Cast on 3 stitches for the first i-cord tie.
- Work the i-cord until approximately 30 cm.
- Connect the i-cord to the live bandana stitches using the specified ssk method.
- Continue the i-cord edging until 3 stitches remain.
- Work the second approximately 30 cm i-cord tie.
- Bind off, cut yarn, and weave in tails.
The result is a lightweight knitted bandana with a lace-inspired triangular body, tidy i-cord borders, and two adjustable ties. With its sport-weight cotton construction and compact dimensions, it is especially suited to warm-weather knitting and makes a practical project for anyone who enjoys combining lace motifs with clean finishing techniques.