The Garden Vines Bandana is a compact triangular knitting project by Gerda Wolf of My Knit Projects. It begins at a five-stitch tip, grows through increases on every right-side row, develops a repeating lace rib texture, and then narrows through a coordinated decrease sequence. This makes it a useful project for knitters who enjoy chart reading, lace details, and visible shaping.
This third guide takes a chart-focused approach to the same pattern. Instead of treating the charts as illustrations only, it explains how the six charts connect to the construction, when the increase section changes to decreases, and how the final rows bring the triangle to its point. All technical values and written instructions below follow the supplied source.
Project Snapshot
- Designer: Gerda Wolf / My Knit Projects
- Pattern: Garden Vines Bandana Ver 1.3
- Size: One size
- Recommended yarn: Sunny Linen by Majo Garn, 50 g = 150 m
- Option A yarn: 150 meters / 164 yards
- Option B yarn: 115 meters / 125 yards
- Needles: 3.5 mm / US 4
- Gauge: 30 stitches and 28 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in lace rib pattern
- Option A: A = 90 cm / 36 inches, B = 20 cm / 8 inches
- Option B: A = 90 cm / 36 inches, B = 10 cm / 4 inches
Read the Shape Before Reading the Stitches
The construction is straightforward when viewed as a map. The work begins at one tip, expands by adding one stitch on every right-side row, reaches the desired width, and then reverses through decreases. The designer notes that the shape can be modified by adding more pattern repeats for a larger shawl or by working a straight section between the increase and decrease portions for a small scarf.
The sample measurements are based on the recommended yarn. Because needle size and yarn choice can change the fabric, the designer notes that the finished measurements may vary. For either a bandana or small triangle scarf, a length A between 80โ100 cm / 32โ40 inches is recommended.
Yarn, Needles, and Gauge
The recommended yarn is Sunny Linen by Majo Garn, listed as 50 grams = 150 meters. Option A uses 150 meters / 164 yards, while Option B uses 115 meters / 125 yards. The recommended needles are 3.5 mm / US 4.
The stated gauge is 30 stitches and 28 rows over 10 cm / 4 inches in the lace rib pattern on 3.5 mm / US 4 needles. The designer describes this gauge as a reference rather than a strict requirement and states that the pattern works with different yarns or needles even when gauge is not matched.
Abbreviations Used in the Pattern
- CO: Cast on
- k: Knit
- k2tog: Knit 2 together
- k3tog: Knit 3 together
- ssk: Slip, slip, knit
- m1l / m1lp: Make 1 left / make 1 left purlwise
- p: Purl
- p2tog: Purl 2 together
- RS: Right side
- sl2 k1 p2sso: Slip 2 stitches knitwise, k1, pass two slipped stitches over
- sl2p wyif: Slip 2 stitches purlwise with yarn in front
- st(s): Stitch(es)
- WS: Wrong side
- yo: Yarn over
How the Increase Direction Works
All increases are worked so that they lean to the left. For m1l and m1lp, insert the left-hand needle under the bar formed by the stitch just knitted and the stitch you are about to knit, moving from front to back, then knit or purl through the back loop.
This detail is important because the increase direction is part of the visual balance of the triangular shape. The pattern uses both m1l and m1lp in the opening and repeating increase sections.
The 21-Row Setup
Cast on 5 stitches.
Row 1 (WS): Sl2p wyif, p1, sl2p wyif.
Row 2 (RS): K5.
Row 3: Sl2p wyif, p1, sl2p wyif.
Row 4: K2, p1, m1lp, k2.
Row 5: Sl2p wyif, k2, sl2p wyif.
Row 6: K2, p1, m1l, p1, k2.
Row 7: Sl2p wyif, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 8: K2, p1, m1l, k1, p1, k2.
Row 9: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 10: K2, p1, m1lp, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
Row 11: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k2, sl2p wyif.
Row 12: K2, p1, m1l, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
Row 13: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 14: K2, p1, m1l, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
Row 15: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 16: K2, p1, m1lp, k2, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
Row 17: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k2, sl2p wyif.
Row 18: K2, p1, m1l, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
Row 19: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 20: K2, p1, m1l, k1, p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
Row 21: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
These 21 rows establish the lace rib structure. After them, continue increasing one stitch on every right-side row while working the lace rib pattern.
Chart 1: Establishing the Lace Rib
Chart 1 is the visual companion to the opening section. It shows the triangular growth from the initial five stitches and introduces the repeated lace rib organization. The grey squares represent no stitch, so the shape of the chart itself changes as the piece grows.
Use the chart together with the written instructions rather than treating it as a replacement for the row directions. The symbols indicate the right-side and wrong-side actions, and the edge symbols preserve the narrow slipped-stitch border.
Chart 2: The Main Increase Repeat
Once the setup is complete, Chart 2 becomes the repeating increase section.
Row 1 (RS): K2, p1, m1lp, k2tog, yo, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 2 (WS): Sl2p wyif, k1, *p2, k1* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 3: K2, p1, m1l, p1, yo, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 4: Sl2p wyif, k1, *p2, k1* repeat to 4 sts before end of row, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 5: K2, p1, m1l, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 6: Sl2p wyif, k1, *p2, k1* repeat to 5 sts before end of row, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 7: K2, p1, m1lp, k2, p1, yo, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 8: Sl2p wyif, k1, *p2, k1* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 9: K2, p1, m1l, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 10: Sl2p wyif, k1, *p2, k1* repeat to 4 sts before end of row, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 11: K2, p1, m1l, k1, *p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 12: Sl2p wyif, k1, *p2, k1* repeat to 5 sts before end of row, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
Where to Stop Increasing
For Option A, work rows 1โ12 until you reach the halfway point of the desired length or until half the yarn has been used. The original sample stopped increasing after reaching 71 stitches on a row 6 repeat.
For Option B, work rows 1โ12 until the desired scarf width is reached. The pattern recommends stopping after row 12 with 26, 32, or 38 stitches on the needles so the lace rib remains symmetrical. Then work straight without increases until you are ready to decrease.
The Decrease Transition Is a Decision Point
The first decrease row depends on the final wrong-side increase row. The source gives this exact relationship:
- Last WS increase Row 2 โ First RS decrease Row 1
- Last WS increase Row 4 โ First RS decrease Row 11
- Last WS increase Row 6 โ First RS decrease Row 9
- Last WS increase Row 8 โ First RS decrease Row 7
- Last WS increase Row 10 โ First RS decrease Row 5
- Last WS increase Row 12 โ First RS decrease Row 3
Then inspect the last right-side row. If the lace used a k2tog-yo combination, follow Chart 3 for rows 1, 5, and 9 and Chart 4 for rows 3, 7, and 11. If the lace used a yo-ssk combination, follow Chart 4 for rows 1, 5, and 9 and Chart 3 for rows 3, 7, and 11.
After identifying the first decrease row, continue with the same chart. Do not switch between the two charts.
Chart 3: Decrease Route A
Row 1 (RS): K2, p1, yo, Sl2 k1 p2sso, *p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 2 (WS): Sl2p wyif, *k1, p2* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 3: K2, p1, k2tog, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 4: Sl2p wyif, *k1, p2* repeat to 5 sts before end of row, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 5: K2, p1, p2tog, k2, p1, yo, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 6: Sl2p wyif, *k1, p2* repeat to 4 sts before end of row, k2, sl2p wyif.
Row 7: K2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 8: Sl2p wyif, *k1, p2* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 9: K2, p1, k2tog, p1, yo, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 10: Sl2p wyif, *k1, p2* repeat to 5 sts before end of row, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 11: K2, p1, p2tog, k2tog, yo, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 12: Sl2p wyif, *k1, p2* repeat to 4 sts before end of row, k2, sl2p wyif.
Repeat rows 1โ12 until 13 stitches remain, then continue with Chart 5.
Chart 4: Decrease Route B
Row 1 (RS): K2, p1, k3tog, yo, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 2 (WS): Sl2p wyif, *k1, p2* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 3: K2, p1, k2tog, *p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 4: Sl2p wyif, *k1, p2* repeat to 5 sts before end of row, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 5: K2, p1, p2tog, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 6: Sl2p wyif, *k1, p2* repeat to 4 sts before end of row, k2, sl2p wyif.
Row 7: K2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, yo, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 8: Sl2p wyif, *k1, p2* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 9: K2, p1, k2tog, p1, k2tog, yo, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 10: Sl2p wyif, *k1, p2* repeat to 5 sts before end of row, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 11: K2, p1, p2tog, yo, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk* repeat to 3 sts before end of row, p1, k2.
Row 12: Sl2p wyif, *k1, p2* repeat to 4 sts before end of row, k2, sl2p wyif.
Repeat rows 1โ12 until 9 stitches remain, then continue with Chart 6.
Final Point From Chart 5
After Chart 3 reaches 13 stitches, work the final 17 rows:
Row 1 (RS): K2, p1, p2tog, k2, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
Row 2 (WS): Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k2, sl2p wyif.
Row 3: K2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
Row 4: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 5: K2, p1, k2tog, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
Row 6: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 7: K2, p1, p2tog, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
Row 8: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k2, sl2p wyif.
Row 9: K2, p1, yo, sl2k1 p2sso, p1, k2.
Row 10: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 11: K2, p1, k2tog, p1, k2.
Row 12: Sl2p wyif, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 13: K2, p1, p2tog, k2.
Row 14: Sl2p wyif, k2, sl2p wyif.
Row 15: K2, k2tog, k2.
Row 16: Sl2p wyif, p1, sl2p wyif.
Row 17: Bind off all sts.
Final Point From Chart 6
After Chart 4 reaches 9 stitches, work the final 17 rows:
Row 1 (RS): K2, p1, p2tog, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
Row 2 (WS): Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k2, sl2p wyif.
Row 3: K2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
Row 4: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 5: K2, p1, k2tog, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
Row 6: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 7: K2, p1, p2tog, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
Row 8: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k2, sl2p wyif.
Row 9: K2, p1, yo, k3tog, p1, k2.
Row 10: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 11: K2, p1, k2tog, p1, k2.
Row 12: Sl2p wyif, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
Row 13: K2, p1, p2tog, k2.
Row 14: Sl2p wyif, k2, sl2p wyif.
Row 15: K2, k2tog, k2.
Row 16: Sl2p wyif, p1, sl2p wyif.
Row 17: Bind off all sts.
Technique Notes for the Main Decreases
K2tog: Insert the right needle knitwise into the first two stitches on the left needle from left to right and knit through both loops together.
K3tog: Insert the right needle knitwise into the first three stitches on the left needle from left to right and knit through all three loops together.
SSK: Slip the first stitch knitwise, repeat with the second stitch, return both to the left needle, and knit them together through the back loops.
Sl2 k1 p2sso: Slip the next two stitches together as if to k2tog, knit the next stitch, then lift the two slipped stitches over the knit stitch and off the needle.
Practical Checkpoints
- 5 stitches: Starting point after the cast-on.
- 21 rows: Initial setup and lace rib establishment completed.
- 71 stitches: The sample’s Option A stopping point after a row 6 repeat.
- 26, 32, or 38 stitches: Suggested Option B stopping points after row 12.
- 13 stitches: Switch from Chart 3 to Chart 5.
- 9 stitches: Switch from Chart 4 to Chart 6.
- Row 17: Bind off all stitches at the end of either final chart.
Common Chart-Reading Errors
The most important error to avoid is choosing a decrease chart without checking the last right-side lace combination. The pattern does not use Chart 3 and Chart 4 interchangeably. The final increase sequence determines which route should be followed.
It is also easy to lose track of the edge stitches because they look different from the lace motif. The repeated sl2p wyif instruction is intentional and should remain part of every relevant wrong-side row.
Another useful habit is recording the last increase row before beginning the decreases. That single piece of information lets you use the transition table rather than trying to guess where the decrease chart should start.
Option A Versus Option B
Option A is the larger bandana and measures 90 cm / 36 inches by 20 cm / 8 inches in the sample. It uses 150 meters / 164 yards of the recommended yarn.
Option B is the small scarf and measures 90 cm / 36 inches by 10 cm / 4 inches. It uses 115 meters / 125 yards. The recommended stopping points after a row 12 repeat are 26, 32, or 38 stitches so the lace rib pattern remains symmetrical.
Why the Project Works Well as a One-Skein Knit
The Garden Vines Bandana is designed around a modest amount of yarn and a compact triangular shape. The designer specifically describes it as a stash-busting single-skein project and notes that it can be made in a variety of gauges and yarn weights.
The construction also makes the project easy to adapt conceptually. A larger shawl can be created by adding more pattern repeats, while a small scarf can include a straight section between the increase and decrease stages. These are design options stated by the source rather than changes that need to be invented while following the original sample.
Finishing Checklist
- Confirm the correct option and stopping point.
- Record the last wrong-side increase row.
- Check the last right-side lace combination.
- Select Chart 3 or Chart 4 according to the pattern’s rule.
- Continue with the same decrease chart.
- Move to Chart 5 at 13 stitches or Chart 6 at 9 stitches.
- Complete the final 17 rows.
- Bind off all stitches on Row 17.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this a crochet pattern?
No. Garden Vines Bandana is a knitting pattern. Its instructions use knit, purl, yarn over, ssk, k2tog, k3tog, and other knitting techniques.
What is the starting stitch count?
The project begins with CO 5 stitches.
What needle size is recommended?
3.5 mm / US 4 needles.
What is the recommended gauge?
30 stitches and 28 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in lace rib pattern on 3.5 mm / US 4 needles.
How much yarn does Option A use?
150 meters / 164 yards of Sunny Linen by Majo Garn.
How much yarn does Option B use?
115 meters / 125 yards of Sunny Linen by Majo Garn.
What are the sample measurements?
Option A is 90 cm / 36 inches long and 20 cm / 8 inches wide. Option B is 90 cm / 36 inches long and 10 cm / 4 inches wide.
Can the pattern be made with different yarn?
Yes. The designer states that the pattern works even when the stated gauge is not met and different yarns or needles are used. The measurements can vary with those choices.
Which chart follows Chart 3?
When Chart 3 is used, continue until 13 stitches remain, then switch to Chart 5.
Which chart follows Chart 4?
When Chart 4 is used, continue until 9 stitches remain, then switch to Chart 6.
How does the pattern end?
Both Chart 5 and Chart 6 end with Row 17: bind off all stitches.
Final Thoughts
The Garden Vines Bandana is a strong example of how a small number of carefully coordinated knitting techniques can create a distinctive accessory. The lace rib pattern supplies the texture, the yarn overs create openness, the left-leaning increases build the triangle, and the decrease charts reverse that shaping while preserving the visual rhythm.
The key to a smooth experience is not memorizing every chart symbol. Instead, treat the pattern as a sequence of checkpoints: establish the 5-stitch beginning, complete the 21-row setup, repeat the increase sequence, record where the increases stop, select the correct decrease route, and then finish with Chart 5 or Chart 6 at the specified stitch count.
The original pattern also provides useful flexibility. Option A gives the 90 cm / 36 inch by 20 cm / 8 inch bandana, while Option B gives the 90 cm / 36 inch by 10 cm / 4 inch small scarf. The designer also explains how additional repeats or a straight section can change the overall shape.
Pattern credit: Garden Vines Bandana by Gerda Wolf / My Knit Projects. The supplied source identifies it as Garden Vines Bandana Ver 1.3 ยฉ 2026 Gerda Wolf and states that the pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only. The source also notes that the pattern has not been tested or tech edited.