The Spice Market Bandana is a small but technically interesting knitting project designed for warm-weather wear. Worked in sport-weight cotton yarn, this one-size accessory combines a triangular lace fabric with neat i-cord borders and two long ties. The finished piece has a simple silhouette, but the construction gives knitters plenty of opportunities to practice useful techniques while creating something practical.
Rather than beginning with a wide cast-on and shaping toward the center, this pattern takes the opposite approach. You start with only five stitches at the bottom of the bandana and gradually build the triangle by adding two stitches on every right-side shaping row. As the fabric becomes wider, a repeating lace sequence creates the decorative texture through yarn overs and k3tog decreases.
The edges are an integral part of the design. The first two stitches of every row are knitted, while the final two stitches are slipped with the yarn in front. Together, these stitches form an i-cord-style edging that gives the sides a tidy appearance and helps prevent curling.
Once the triangular body reaches the desired length, the construction changes in an especially useful way. The live stitches are left on the needle rather than being bound off. A three-stitch i-cord is worked for the first tie and then joined directly to the live edge. That i-cord travels across the bandana as the edging, and the final three stitches become the beginning of the second tie.
This article walks through the project in that construction order, with special attention to the stitch-count checkpoints, shaping logic, lace repeat, and transition from the body into the i-cord finish.
Project Snapshot
The original design is worked in one size. The finished measurements are approximately 40 cm (15.75 in) in length without ties and 23 cm (9 in) in height.
The specified yarn is Drops Safran in the color red clay, uni color 59, using one ball. The main bandana is knitted with 3 mm (US 2.5) knitting needles. The i-cord ties require a pair of 3 mm (US 2.5) DPNs.
- Finished size: One size
- Length without ties: 40 cm / 15.75 in
- Height: 23 cm / 9 in
- Yarn: Drops Safran, red clay, uni color 59
- Yarn quantity: 1 ball
- Main needles: 3 mm (US 2.5) knitting needles
- Tie needles: A pair of 3 mm (US 2.5) DPNs
- Gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows per 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) in stockinette stitch after blocking
- First tie: Approximately 30 cm
- Second tie: Approximately 30 cm
What You Are Building
It helps to picture the finished bandana as three connected elements: a triangular central fabric, a continuous i-cord border, and two i-cord ties.
The triangle is the largest section. It begins with five stitches and becomes progressively wider. The lace pattern is worked inside the two-stitch edge treatment, while the right-side increases control the overall expansion.
The border is not knitted separately and sewn on. Instead, it is created after the body is complete by working a three-stitch i-cord together with the live stitches around the edge.
The ties are also not sewn onto the finished bandana. The first tie is knitted before the edging and becomes connected directly to the body. The second tie grows naturally from the final three stitches remaining after the edging is complete.
Thinking about the project in this way makes the construction easier to visualize:
- Build the triangular body.
- Leave the body stitches live.
- Create the first 30 cm i-cord.
- Attach that i-cord to the body.
- Continue the i-cord across the edge.
- Use the final three stitches to make the second 30 cm tie.
Materials and Preparation
Yarn
The pattern specifies Drops Safran in red clay, uni color 59, with one ball. It is a sport-weight cotton yarn.
The original design is worked in one color, so there are no color-change instructions to manage. This makes it easier to focus on the lace structure and the shaping. The single-color fabric also gives the yarn-over openings and i-cord borders a clear visual presence.
Needles
Use 3 mm (US 2.5) knitting needles for the main bandana. A pair of 3 mm (US 2.5) DPNs is used for the i-cord ties.
Notions
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
The measuring tape has several jobs during the project. It can be used to check the finished body dimensions and to measure each i-cord tie as it approaches the required approximately 30 cm length.
Gauge and Measurements
The stated gauge is 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) = 24 stitches x 32 rows in stockinette stitch after blocking.
The finished measurements are:
- Length without ties: 40 cm / 15.75 in
- Height: 23 cm / 9 in
The gauge is given in stockinette stitch after blocking, while the actual bandana includes lace. This distinction is worth remembering when checking your fabric. The stated gauge is the pattern’s reference point rather than a description of every stitch in the finished triangle.
Because the designer allows the main pattern repeat to be added or removed, the length can also be adjusted. The instructions state to repeat rows 1โ6 nine more times or continue until you reach your desired length.
Abbreviations for the Written Pattern
The following abbreviations are used throughout the instructions.
- k โ knit.
- k3tog โ knit 3 stitches together: slip the next 2 stitches knitwise, slipping both stitches together rather than one by one, to the right-hand needle, knit the next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch.
- p โ purl.
- RS โ right side.
- sl โ slip stitch as if to purl with yarn in front.
- ssk โ slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip the next stitch knitwise, return the 2 stitches back to the left needle, and knit those 2 stitches together through the back loops.
- WS โ wrong side.
- yo โ yarn over.
- *-* โ repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times specified.
Two Rules That Control the Edges
Before getting into the rows, there are two pattern notes that are especially important.
The I-Cord Edge
The first and last two stitches form the i-cord edging. The first two stitches of every row are knitted, and the last two stitches are slipped with yarn in front.
These edge stitches should not be tightened. Keeping them relaxed is part of achieving the intended neat border.
The Increase Points
On each right-side row containing the shaping, two stitches are increased. The increases are made using M1R and M1L before and after the two i-cord edge stitches.
The increased stitches should also not be tightened.
The pattern provides an optional simplification: M1L and M1R can be replaced with yarn overs if you want to simplify the pattern.
Beginning With Five Stitches
Cast on 5 stitches.
The first row is a wrong-side set-up row:
Set-up row (WS): k2, p1, sl2.
This establishes the basic relationship between the two outer edge stitches and the center stitch.
Building the Triangle During the Set-Up
The next seven rows gradually introduce the lace structure and increase the stitch count.
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, k1, M1L, sl2 (7 sts).
After this row, the original five stitches have become seven. Both increases occur around the central portion of the fabric and outside the two-stitch edge treatment.
Row 2: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
The wrong-side row does not add stitches. It maintains the established edge pattern.
Row 3: k2, M1R, yo, k3tog, yo, M1L, sl2 (9 sts).
This is the first set-up row to introduce the yarn-over and k3tog combination. The stitch count reaches nine.
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 5: k2, M1R, k1, yo, k3tog, yo, k1, M1L, sl2 (11 sts).
The triangle continues to widen, reaching eleven stitches after this row.
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 7: k2, M1R, k2, yo, k3tog, yo, k2, M1L, sl2 (13 sts).
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
The set-up is now complete. After Row 7, the stitch count is 13 stitches, and Row 8 maintains that count.
Set-Up Stitch Checkpoint
- Cast on: 5 stitches
- After Row 1: 7 stitches
- After Row 3: 9 stitches
- After Row 5: 11 stitches
- After Row 7: 13 stitches
If these checkpoints do not match, it is better to locate the issue before beginning the long repeat section.
Entering the Main Lace Repeat
The main section uses six rows. The first, third, and fifth rows are right-side shaping rows. Each increases the stitch count by two. Rows 2, 4, and 6 are wrong-side rows.
This distinction makes the repeat easier to organize. You can think of every six-row block as containing three shaping rows and three simpler reverse-side rows.
Main Pattern Row 1
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, *yo, k3tog, yo, k3* to last 5sts, yo, k3tog, yo, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
The asterisked sequence is repeated to the specified stopping point. The row ends with the final lace actions, the M1L increase, and the two slipped edge stitches.
Main Pattern Row 2
Row 2 (WS): k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Main Pattern Row 3
Row 3: k2, M1R, k1, *yo, k3tog, yo, k3* to last 6sts, yo, k3tog, yo, k1, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Notice that this row has a k1 after the first increase and another k1 before the second increase. The stopping point also changes to last 6 stitches.
Main Pattern Row 4
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Main Pattern Row 5
Row 5: k2, M1R, k2, *yo, k3tog, yo, k3* to last 7sts, yo, k3tog, yo, k2, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Here the edge-adjacent knit sections are two stitches long, and the instruction continues to the last 7 stitches before completing the final section.
Main Pattern Row 6
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
These six rows form one complete repeat.
How to Manage the Nine Additional Repeats
The pattern instructs you to repeat rows 1โ6 9 more times or until you reach your desired length.
Since each right-side shaping row adds two stitches, the triangle grows progressively wider throughout these repeats. The lace motif remains organized inside that expanding framework.
For practical pattern tracking, it can help to mark each completed six-row repeat on paper. You can also treat every right-side row as a checkpoint: confirm that both M1 increases have been made before moving to the next wrong-side row.
The wrong-side rows are deliberately consistent, which gives you a predictable reset point. Each one is:
k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
That consistency can make the project easier to follow once you are comfortable identifying whether you are on Row 1, 3, or 5 of the shaping repeat.
Understanding the Lace Motif
The decorative section uses two primary lace actions: yo and k3tog.
A yarn over creates an opening in the knitted fabric, while k3tog works three stitches together into one stitch. These operations appear together in the lace sequence and form the open texture.
The M1R and M1L increases serve a different purpose. They are responsible for increasing the total width of the triangular body. Keeping these two functions conceptually separate can make the pattern easier to understand: the yarn overs and k3tog create the lace design, while the M1R and M1L shape the triangle.
What to Watch for While Knitting
Do Not Tighten the Edges
The edge stitches are intended to create an i-cord appearance. Pulling them tightly can make the sides contract. The same caution applies to the increased stitches.
Respect the Row-Specific Instructions
The three right-side rows are similar but not identical. Row 1, Row 3, and Row 5 each position their knit stitches and stopping points differently. Follow the exact row rather than assuming the previous shaping row can simply be repeated without checking.
Use the Stitch Counts as Evidence
The set-up section provides clear counts of 7, 9, 11, and 13 stitches after the increase rows. During the main pattern, each shaping row explicitly states that two stitches are increased. These are useful checkpoints when troubleshooting.
When the Body Is Long Enough
Once you have repeated the six-row sequence nine more times or have reached your desired length, it is time to prepare for the i-cord finishing section.
Break the yarn, leaving a 10 cm (4 in) long tail.
Do not bind off.
Set the bandana aside with the stitches remaining on the needle.
This is one of the most important construction details in the entire project. The live stitches are intentionally preserved because the first i-cord will later be connected to them.
Creating the First Tie
Take the pair of 3 mm (US 2.5) DPNs and cast on 3 stitches. Do not turn.
Work the following sequence:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue knitting this i-cord until the tube measures approximately 30 cm.
Do not cut the yarn.
The I-Cord-to-Bandana Transition
Transfer the three i-cord stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
Then knit the first two i-cord stitches.
Next, work ssk, knitting the last i-cord stitch together with the first bandana stitch.
This is the moment when the separate tie becomes connected to the triangular body.
After working the ssk, transfer the first three stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
Now repeat:
*k2, ssk, transfer 3 stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches*
Continue until you have 3 stitches left.
How the Continuous Edge Works
The edging stage can initially look more complicated than the body because it combines two sets of stitches. The easiest way to understand it is to remember that the i-cord always remains a three-stitch structure while the live bandana stitches are gradually consumed.
Each time you work k2 and then ssk, the last i-cord stitch is joined with one live bandana stitch. The three stitches are then repositioned so the process can be repeated.
As you progress, the i-cord travels along the edge of the triangular body. The final result is a continuous border rather than a separately attached strip.
The Final Three Stitches
When you have three stitches left, stop the edging sequence. These three stitches are not discarded. They become the stitches used for the second tie.
Work the second i-cord in exactly the same basic manner as the first:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue until the second i-cord tube measures approximately 30 cm.
When it reaches the specified length, bind off, cut the yarn, and weave in the tails.
Assembly Is Built Into the Knitting
One of the appealing aspects of this pattern is that very little traditional sewing is required. The bandana does not require separate ties to be sewn onto the triangle, and the edging is not attached as a separate strip.
Instead, the assembly is incorporated into the knitting itself:
- The first tie is knitted first.
- The first tie is joined to the live bandana stitches using ssk.
- The i-cord continues across the edge.
- The remaining three stitches naturally become the second tie.
The tapestry needle is primarily needed for finishing the yarn tails rather than constructing the main components.
Adjusting the Length
The designer notes that the size of the bandana can be modified by adding or subtracting repeats. The main pattern instructs you to repeat rows 1โ6 nine more times or continue until you reach your desired length.
If you choose to modify the length, the important principle is to maintain the six-row sequence and its shaping logic. The right-side rows continue to add two stitches, while the wrong-side rows preserve the edge structure.
Changing the number of repeats changes the dimensions of the triangular body, while the i-cord ties are still worked to approximately 30 cm according to the stated instructions.
Beginner-Friendly Checkpoints
If this is your first project involving lace and i-cord construction, use the following checkpoints to keep the process organized.
Checkpoint 1: The Starting Point
You should begin with exactly 5 stitches.
Checkpoint 2: The First Increase
After Row 1, the count is 7 stitches.
Checkpoint 3: Lace Appears
After Row 3, the count is 9 stitches and the set-up lace sequence has been introduced.
Checkpoint 4: Set-Up Complete
After Row 7, you have 13 stitches. Row 8 then prepares you for the main repeat.
Checkpoint 5: Every Shaping Row
Rows 1, 3, and 5 of the main repeat each state that 2 stitches are increased.
Checkpoint 6: Main Body Complete
Break the yarn with a 10 cm (4 in) tail, but leave all live stitches on the needle.
Checkpoint 7: First Tie
The first i-cord should measure approximately 30 cm before it is joined to the bandana.
Checkpoint 8: Edging Complete
Continue the i-cord edging until only three stitches remain.
Checkpoint 9: Final Tie
Work those three stitches as an i-cord until the tube measures approximately 30 cm, then bind off.
Troubleshooting the Lace and Shaping
My Stitch Count Is Too Low
Check the right-side shaping rows first. Each one should include both M1R and M1L and should increase the stitch count by two. A missed increase will affect every subsequent row.
My Edge Is Pulling Inward
Check your tension at the first two and last two stitches. The pattern specifically says not to tighten the edge stitches. The increased stitches should also remain relaxed.
I Am Confused About the Asterisks
The instructions inside *-* are repeated the number of times specified. Always read the part after the asterisk to identify exactly where the repetition stops, such as โto last 5sts,โ โto last 6sts,โ or โto last 7sts.โ
I Cannot See the Lace Openings
The lace structure uses yarn overs combined with k3tog. The yarn overs create the openings while the three-stitch decrease balances the stitch structure. Blocking can also help reveal the lace texture more clearly.
I Am Ready to Finish but the Stitches Are Still Live
That is intentional. The live stitches are needed for the i-cord edging. Do not bind them off at the end of the triangular body.
Finishing and Blocking
After the second tie reaches approximately 30 cm, bind off, cut the yarn, and weave in the tails.
The pattern’s gauge is specified after blocking, so blocking is an important part of the final process when comparing the finished fabric with the stated dimensions.
The finished triangular section should measure approximately 40 cm (15.75 in) in length without ties and 23 cm (9 in) in height. Each i-cord tie should measure approximately 30 cm.
Use the measuring tape to check the dimensions rather than relying only on visual judgment. The lace fabric may change in appearance as it settles during finishing.
Pattern Reference: Body Section
For convenient reference, the complete body instructions are listed below without changing the technical information.
Cast on 5 stitches.
Set-up row (WS): k2, p1, sl2.
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, k1, M1L, sl2 (7sts).
Row 2: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 3: k2, M1R, yo, k3tog, yo, M1L, sl2 (9sts).
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 5: k2, M1R, k1, yo, k3tog, yo, k1, M1L, sl2 (11sts).
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 7: k2, M1R, k2, yo, k3tog, yo, k2, M1L, sl2 (13sts).
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Pattern rows:
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, *yo, k3tog, yo, k3* to last 5sts, yo, k3tog, yo, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Row 2 (WS): k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 3: k2, M1R, k1, *yo, k3tog, yo, k3* to last 6sts, yo, k3tog, yo, k1, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 5: k2, M1R, k2, *yo, k3tog, yo, k3* to last 7sts, yo, k3tog, yo, k2, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Repeat rows 1โ6 9 more times or until you reach your desired length.
Break the yarn, leaving a 10 cm (4โณ) long tail. Set the bandana aside, leaving the stitches on the needle as is.
Pattern Reference: I-Cord and Edging
With DPNs, cast on 3 stitches, do not turn.
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Knit the i-cord until the tube measures approximately 30 cm, do not cut the yarn.
Transfer the 3 i-cord stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches.
Knit the first two i-cord stitches, ssk (knit the last i-cord stitch together with the first bandana stitch).
Transfer the first 3 stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches.
Repeat:
*k2, ssk, transfer 3 stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches*
Continue until you have 3 stitches left.
Work the second i-cord tie as the first one:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Knit the i-cord until the tube measures approximately 30 cm. Bind off, cut the yarn, and weave in the tails.
Final Project Checklist
- Use Drops Safran in red clay, uni color 59, 1 ball.
- Use 3 mm (US 2.5) knitting needles for the main fabric.
- Use 3 mm (US 2.5) DPNs for the ties.
- Begin with 5 stitches.
- Complete the eight set-up rows.
- Confirm the 13-stitch checkpoint after Row 7.
- Work the six-row main pattern repeat.
- Remember that the shaping rows increase by 2 stitches.
- Repeat rows 1โ6 9 more times or until you reach your desired length.
- Leave the main stitches live when the body is finished.
- Leave a 10 cm (4โณ) tail when breaking the yarn.
- Work the first i-cord to approximately 30 cm.
- Join the i-cord to the live bandana stitches with the specified ssk construction.
- Continue the edging until 3 stitches remain.
- Work the second i-cord to approximately 30 cm.
- Bind off and weave in the tails.
- Check the final dimensions after blocking.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this a one-size knitting pattern?
Yes. The pattern is written for one size, with finished measurements of 40 cm (15.75 in) in length without ties and 23 cm (9 in) in height.
What type of yarn does the pattern use?
The pattern uses sport-weight cotton yarn, specifically Drops Safran in red clay, uni color 59, with one ball.
How does the triangular shape grow?
The triangle grows through two increases on the right-side shaping rows. These are made with M1R and M1L around the two-stitch i-cord edge treatment.
How often does the pattern increase?
Rows 1, 3, and 5 of each six-row main repeat are right-side shaping rows, and each of those rows increases the stitch count by two.
What happens on the wrong-side rows?
Rows 2, 4, and 6 are worked as k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
How long are the ties?
Both ties are worked until their tubes measure approximately 30 cm.
Why do the body stitches stay on the needle?
They are needed for the i-cord edging. The first tie is connected to the live stitches, and the edging continues across the bandana using the ssk joining technique.
Can I make the bandana longer or shorter?
The pattern notes that you can modify the size by adding or subtracting repeats. The stated instruction is to repeat rows 1โ6 nine more times or continue until you reach your desired length.
Can I substitute yarn overs for M1R and M1L?
The pattern notes that you can replace M1L and M1R with yarn overs if you want to simplify the pattern.
Why This Pattern Makes a Useful Knitting Project
The Spice Market Bandana is small enough to be a manageable project while still introducing several construction techniques that are useful beyond this particular design. The triangular shaping demonstrates how repeated increases can transform a five-stitch beginning into a wider fabric. The lace section provides practice with yarn overs and k3tog. The borders introduce an i-cord-style edge, and the finishing stage demonstrates how live stitches can be incorporated directly into a knitted border.
The project also rewards careful pattern reading. Several rows look similar at first glance, but the positions of the knit stitches and the โlast 5,โ โlast 6,โ and โlast 7โ stopping points change. Following those details keeps the lace pattern aligned while the triangle expands.
Most importantly, the finishing method means the construction remains cohesive from beginning to end. The first tie becomes the starting point of the edge, the edge consumes the live stitches across the triangle, and the final three stitches become the second tie.
Final Thoughts
The Spice Market Bandana offers a compact way to explore lace knitting and integrated finishing techniques in a single summer accessory. Starting with just five stitches, the project grows through controlled increases until the central triangular section reaches its intended dimensions. The repeating lace sequence gives the fabric its decorative character, while the relaxed i-cord edges create a clean frame around the design.
The most important details are straightforward once the construction is divided into stages: maintain the two edge stitches, make both right-side increases, follow the six-row lace repeat carefully, preserve the live stitches at the end of the body, and use the three-stitch i-cord to create the ties and continuous edging.
For the original one-size version, the central bandana measures approximately 40 cm (15.75 in) without ties and 23 cm (9 in) in height. Each tie measures approximately 30 cm. The stated gauge is 24 stitches by 32 rows over 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) in stockinette stitch after blocking.
Once the final tie is bound off and the yarn tails are woven in, the result is a lightweight cotton accessory with a delicate lace surface, a structured edge, and matching i-cord ties. The pattern’s combination of simple repeating movements and distinctive construction makes it an engaging project for knitters who want to create something wearable while practicing several foundational techniques.