Love Puff Bandana Crochet Pattern: A Beginner-Friendly Guide from First Puff to Final Ties

The Love Puff Bandana is a delicate triangular crochet accessory designed around one distinctive feature: the HDC3PUFF stitch. As the project grows, puff-stitch rows alternate with openwork rows to create a light, lacy texture. A shell border then follows the triangle, and long crocheted ties complete the accessory.

This fourth version of the tutorial approaches the pattern as a stitch-checkpoint and finishing guide. The goal is to make the construction easier to follow without changing the original instructions. Every technical value in the pattern is retained, including the yarn specification, hook size, gauge reference, row numbers, stitch counts, repeats, size stopping points, shell totals, rotations, and tie instructions. The source uses US crochet terms. fileciteturn0file0

Why the Construction Is Easier Than It First Looks

At first glance, the Love Puff Bandana can look intricate because several puff motifs appear inside an open lace structure. In practice, the main body is based on a repeating alternation. Odd-numbered rows beginning with Row 3 are puff-stitch rows, while even-numbered rows beginning with Row 4 create the open framework around those motifs.

The most important idea is that the number of repeats increases as the triangle becomes wider. This means you are not learning a completely new stitch arrangement for every row. Instead, you are extending a familiar structure. Once the first few rows make sense, the later rows become a matter of following the specified repeat count and checking the stitch count at the end.

The pattern also gives three clear size checkpoints. Size S stops at Row 27, Size M at Row 31, and Size L at Row 35. Since each selected size ends on an odd-numbered puff row, the transition into the shell border remains consistent.

Materials You Need

• Yarn: One 50 g skein of weight 1 cotton yarn.
• Reference yarn amount: 170 m or 186 yds per 50 g.
• Hook: 3.5 mm or E-4.
• Crochet terminology: US terms.

The demonstration photographs and videos may show thicker yarn and a larger hook, but the source explains that those materials are only for demonstration. For the actual pattern, use the stated weight 1 cotton yarn and 3.5 mm or E-4 hook.

Pattern Vocabulary

• YO: yarn over
• ST: stitch
• CH: chain
• CH-3 SP: chain-3 space
• SL ST: slip stitch
• SC: single crochet
• DC: double crochet
• HDC3PUFF: half double crochet 3 puff stitch

For the HDC3PUFF, work (YO, insert hook, YO, pull up a loop)×3 into the same stitch, YO, pull through 6 loops, YO, pull through both loops. This definition is worth keeping beside you because the puff stitch is the dominant textured element in the main section.

The Four Counting Rules That Matter Most

Before starting, make sure these four details are understood exactly as written in the source. CH 3 at the beginning of a row does count as a ST on top of the DC in the previous row, so the HDC3PUFF should be in the next DC. CH 1 does not count as a ST. CH 3 between puff stitches does not count as a ST. CH 2 between SC and DC does not count as a ST.

These distinctions are especially important when comparing your work with the printed stitch counts. A chain space can be visible without being counted as a stitch. Following the written counting rules is more reliable than simply counting every loop you can see.

Size Planning and Gauge

The source says that gauge is not super important and does not have to be matched, but it provides a reference if you want to follow the finished sizes. The stated gauge is 15.5 cm or 5.6 inches wide for 19 stitches (row 11) × 9.4 cm or 3.7 inches tall for 11 rows.

For choosing a size, measure from one earlobe, up over the head to the point where you want the flat edge of the bandana to sit, and down to the other earlobe. This is the width of the bandana excluding the strings.

• Size S: 27 rows for width of 36 cm or 14 inches.
• Size M: 31 rows for width of 43 cm or 17 inches.
• Size L: 35 rows for width of 50 cm or 20 inches.

The designer also explains that the pattern can be adjusted by adding or subtracting rows in multiples of 2 if you want a smaller or bigger size than those available. The important condition is that you must finish with an odd number of rows.

Checkpoint 1: Establish the Center Point

The first six rows are the best place to slow down and learn the rhythm. Row 1 establishes the first puff cluster. Row 2 creates the first open spaces. Row 3 returns to the puff motif and begins the widening process. Rows 4, 5, and 6 continue the alternating structure.

Row 1

CH 1+3, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF, DC) all into the 1st CH. Turn. (4)

Row 2

CH 3+1, DC in the DC from the previous row, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in the 3rd CH from the previous row. Turn. (5)

Row 3

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in the DC, DC in the SC]×1, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in the DC, DC in the 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (7)

Row 4

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×1, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (7)

Row 5

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×2, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (10)

Row 6

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×2, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (9)

Checkpoint 2: Understand the Odd-and-Even Rhythm

Beginning with Row 7, the pattern becomes more repetitive. The odd rows add puff-stitch motifs, while the even rows connect them with chain spaces and single crochet. Each odd row starting from Row 3 increases with an extra repeat, and each even row starting from Row 4 increases with an extra repeat.

Row 7

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×3, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (13)

Row 8

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×3, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (11)

Row 9

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×4, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (16)

Row 10

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×4, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (13)

Row 11

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×4, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (19)

Row 12

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×4, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (15)

Checkpoint 3: Keep the Repeat Count Moving

Rows 13 through 24 continue the same basic construction while increasing the number of repeats. This is the point where it becomes particularly useful to mark your current row and record the stitch count before moving on.

Rows 13–18

Row 13: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×5, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (22)

Row 14: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×5, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (17)

Row 15: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×6, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (25)

Row 16: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×6, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (19)

Row 17: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×7, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (28)

Row 18: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×7, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (21)

Rows 19–24

Row 19: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×8, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (31)

Row 20: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×8, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (23)

Row 21: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×9, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (34)

Row 22: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×9, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (25)

Row 23: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×10, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (37)

Row 24: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×10, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (27)

Checkpoint 4: Stop at the Correct Size

The final section of the main body determines the size. It is important not to stop at an arbitrary visual width if you are following the stated pattern. Use the row number and the corresponding target width as your guide.

Rows 25–27: Size S

Row 25: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×11, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (40)

Row 26: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×11, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (29)

Row 27: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×12, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Stop here for size S. Turn. (43)

Rows 28–31: Size M

Row 28: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×12, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (31)

Row 29: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×13, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (46)

Row 30: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×13, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (33)

Row 31: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×14, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Stop here for size M. Turn. (49)

Rows 32–35: Size L

Row 32: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×14, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (35)

Row 33: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×15, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (52)

Row 34: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×15, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (37)

Row 35: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×16, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Stop here for size L. (55)

What to Check Before Starting the Border

• The main body has an odd number of rows.
• The final row is a puff-stitch row.
• Size S ends at Row 27.
• Size M ends at Row 31.
• Size L ends at Row 35.
• The main triangle has the intended openwork and puff-stitch rhythm.

The source specifically instructs you to rotate the bandana 135° to begin crocheting along the side. This rotation is part of the border construction, so it is useful to treat it as a separate finishing stage rather than trying to continue the body instructions into the edge.

The Shell Border: A Decorative Finishing Stage

The shell border is built from DC 5 groups separated by slip stitches along the sides. The number of shells corresponds to the number of rows in the main part of the bandana. The bottom shell is the exception: it is worked with DC 7.

This change at the point is intentional. The designer explains that the bottom shell was changed from 5 DC to 7 DC to prevent the border from curling. This also explains why some of the supplied photographs can show a 5-DC bottom shell even though the written instruction calls for 7 DC.

Size S Shell Border

Side 1: DC 5 in the same ST you ended the puff stitch row on (3rd CH in the top of row 26), [SL ST into the next row (top of the DC), DC 5 in the row after that (3rd CH)]*12 (repeats), SL ST into the top of row 1 (top of the DC).

Bottom: DC 7 into the 1st CH of the bandana.

Side 2: Rotate it 100° and SL ST into the first row on the other side. Then continue up the other side in the same way with DC 5 and SL ST alternating every other row. You should end up with 27 shells in total. Don’t cut the yarn!

Size M Shell Border

Side 1: DC 5 in the same ST you ended the puff stitch row on (3rd CH in the top of row 30), [SL ST into the next row (top of the DC), DC 5 in the row after that (3rd CH)]*14 (repeats), SL ST into the top of row 1 (top of the DC).

Bottom: DC 7 into the 1st CH of the bandana.

Side 2: Rotate it 100° and SL ST into the first row on the other side. Then continue up the other side in the same way with DC 5 and SL ST alternating every other row. 31 shells in total. Don’t cut the yarn!

Size L Shell Border

Side 1: DC 5 in the same ST you ended the puff stitch row on (3rd CH in the top of row 34), [SL ST into the next row (top of the DC), DC 5 in the row after that (3rd CH)]*16 (repeats), SL ST into the top of row 1 (top of the DC.

Bottom: DC 7 into the 1st CH of the bandana.

Side 2: Rotate it 100° and SL ST into the first row on the other side. Then continue up the other side in the same way with DC 5 and SL ST alternating every other row. 35 shells in total. Don’t cut the yarn!

Making the Border Behave Nicely

The shell border is one of the places where visual comparison is useful. The scallops should follow the triangular sides rather than pulling the fabric inward. The source’s 7-DC bottom shell is specifically intended to prevent curling at the point.

When checking your work, pay attention to the alternating pattern of DC 5 shells and slip stitches along the side. Avoid adding extra stitches simply because a side appears to have space. The written pattern determines where each shell and slip stitch goes.

If you are following an older demonstration image, remember that the bottom shell may show 5 DC. The written pattern has been updated to DC 7 at the bottom. The source explicitly calls attention to this difference, so it should not be treated as an error in the photographs.

Optional Width Adjustments from the Source

The pattern includes an option for crocheters with tighter tension. If you do not want the bandana to end up too narrow, use CH 4 instead of CH 3 between HDC3PUFFs. Also use CH 3 instead of CH 2 between the SCs and DCs.

The designer notes that this wider-spacing approach can also be used if you want to make a shawl rather than a bandana. In that adaptation, work the shell border and SCs on top but leave out the strings.

If the bandana has already been completed, another suggestion in the source is to tug at every row to stretch the bandana wider.

Managing the Natural Side Slant

Crochet tension can cause the bandana to slant slightly toward one side. The source notes that it may be slightly wider on the left side if you are right-handed, or slightly wider on the right side if you are left-handed.

This does not mean the construction has failed. The designer suggests blocking the bandana by pinning along the middle and stretching the narrow side as much as possible. This can help balance the shape while preserving the stitch pattern.

The Ties: Long, Simple and Size-Specific

After the border, the final construction stage is the ties. Each size starts with CH 80, then works SC back along the chain. The central attachment sequence changes according to size because it follows the number of repeats in the last puff-stitch row.

Size S Ties

CH 80, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SC in 3rd CH of the last puff stitch row, [SC in HDC3PUFF, SC 3 in CH-3 SP, SC in HDC3PUFF, SC in DC]*14, CH 80, rotate 180°, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SL ST into the DC. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Size M Ties

CH 80, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SC in 3rd CH of the last puff stitch row, [SC in HDC3PUFF, SC 3 in CH-3 SP, SC in HDC3PUFF, SC in DC]*16, CH 80, rotate 180°, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SL ST into the DC. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Size L Ties

CH 80, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SC in 3rd CH of the last puff stitch row, [SC in HDC3PUFF, SC 3 in CH-3 SP, SC in HDC3PUFF, SC in DC]*18, CH 80, rotate 180°, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SL ST into the DC. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Right-Handed and Left-Handed Visual References

The source provides a right-handed diagram and a left-handed diagram, as well as separate visual row sequences. These references are useful when the direction of the symbols feels unfamiliar or when you want to compare the orientation of the growing triangle with your own work.

The stitch instructions themselves are the technical authority for the row counts and repeats. The diagrams should be used as a visual aid, particularly for understanding where the puff motifs, open spaces, side edges, shells, and ties sit relative to one another.

Beginner Stitch Checkpoints

1. After Row 1: confirm that the first puff-stitch structure is centered at the starting point.
2. After Row 2: check the first open CH-3 SP and the DC placement.
3. After Row 3: verify the puff return and the stitch count of 7.
4. After Row 6: make sure the openwork and puff rows are alternating correctly.
5. At Row 11: use the supplied gauge reference if you want to compare your tension.
6. At Row 27: stop for Size S.
7. At Row 31: stop for Size M.
8. At Row 35: stop for Size L.
9. Before the border: make sure the final main-body row is odd-numbered and is a puff row.
10. At the bottom border: use DC 7.
11. Before finishing: check that the appropriate shell total has been reached.
12. At the ties: use CH 80 for each tie and the size-specific repeat count.

Common Problems and What the Source Suggests

The bandana is narrower than expected.

Check your tension and remember that gauge does not have to be matched exactly. If your tension is tight, the source suggests using CH 4 instead of CH 3 between HDC3PUFFs and CH 3 instead of CH 2 between SCs and DCs. A completed piece can also be gently stretched row by row.

The bandana leans to one side.

A slight slant is described as natural to the crochet construction. Blocking can improve the balance. Pin along the middle and stretch the narrow side as much as possible.

The bottom border curls.

Use DC 7 for the bottom shell. The designer specifically changed the bottom shell from 5 DC to 7 DC to prevent curling.

I cannot tell whether a chain counts.

Return to the four counting rules: beginning CH 3 counts as a stitch; CH 1 does not; CH 3 between puff stitches does not; CH 2 between SC and DC does not.

I am using a thicker hook and yarn like the photographs.

The source explains that the thicker yarn and larger hook are for demonstration. The actual project specification remains one 50 g skein of weight 1 cotton yarn with a 3.5 mm or E-4 hook.

Quick Reference for All Three Sizes

• Size S: 27 main-body rows; 36 cm or 14 inches; 27 shell total; tie repeat ×14.
• Size M: 31 main-body rows; 43 cm or 17 inches; 31 shell total; tie repeat ×16.
• Size L: 35 main-body rows; 50 cm or 20 inches; 35 shell total; tie repeat ×18.

All three sizes use one 50 g skein of weight 1 cotton yarn, a 3.5 mm or E-4 hook, and CH 80 for each tie. The main differences are the stopping row, finished width, shell total, and number of repeats in the tie attachment section.

Finishing Checklist

• Confirm the selected size and final main-body row.
• Confirm the final row is an odd-numbered puff row.
• Rotate the bandana 135° before beginning the side border.
• Follow the size-specific shell instructions.
• Use DC 7 for the bottom shell.
• Rotate 100° for the second side as instructed.
• Do not cut the yarn after completing the shell border.
• Work the correct size-specific tie sequence.
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.
• Block the finished bandana if you want to correct the natural sideways slant.

About the Supplied Video References

The source contains video tutorials for the right-handed and left-handed row demonstrations, shell border, and ties. It also contains a note that the video links may be clickable when the PDF is opened through the Google Drive PDF reader but not with Word PDF. If a link does not work correctly in one reader, the source suggests trying a different PDF reader.

The shell-border video demonstrates 5 shells instead of 7 like the pictures, and the source specifically explains the updated bottom-shell instruction. When following the written pattern, use DC 7 for the bottom shell.

Why the Puff Stitch Works So Well Here

The HDC3PUFF gives the bandana its visual character without requiring complicated shaping. The puff clusters appear as raised motifs against the chain-space background, while the double crochet and single crochet framework keeps the fabric open. Because the triangle expands through additional repeats rather than through a completely different shaping method, the texture remains recognizable from the center point to the widest row.

The shell border then provides contrast. Instead of extending the same openwork pattern around the edge, it introduces groups of double crochet that form a scalloped outline. The long ties complete the functional side of the design without adding another complicated stitch pattern.

Final Thoughts

The Love Puff Bandana rewards careful counting more than complicated technique. The project begins with a small puff-stitch center, grows through a predictable odd-row and even-row rhythm, and then changes into a shell border and tie construction. If you keep the counting rules visible and use the row stitch counts as checkpoints, the long pattern becomes much easier to manage.

For Size S, stop the main body at Row 27. For Size M, stop at Row 31. For Size L, stop at Row 35. The shell count then follows the selected size, with 27, 31, or 35 shells respectively. The bottom shell is DC 7, an intentional change made to prevent curling.

The optional width adjustments and blocking advice give you ways to improve the final shape without changing the fundamental pattern. And because the source supplies both right-handed and left-handed diagrams, crocheters can use the visual reference that best matches their working direction.

The result is a lightweight triangular accessory with puff-stitch texture, open lace-like spaces, a decorative scalloped border, and long ties. By treating each stage as a separate checkpoint—main body, size stop, shell border, and ties—you can work through the Love Puff Bandana with much greater confidence.

Pattern credit: Love Puff Bandana by Silent Bloom Crochet, Original Pattern © 2026. The source states that finished items may be sold with credit to the designer and asks that the original pattern and photographs not be copied, shared, or reposted.