The Flower Bed Bandana is a delicate knitted accessory built around a simple triangular shape, decorative eyelets, and clean i-cord borders. Its compact size makes it an approachable project, while the combination of increases, lace stitches, live stitches, and i-cord construction gives the knitting process plenty of useful techniques to practice.
Worked in Drops Safran in lavender, uni color 05, the bandana is designed as a one-size project. The finished length without ties is 43cm/17in, while the height is 22cm/8.75in. The two ties are made separately as i-cords and are approximately 30 cm long each.
Unlike a project that relies on a separately knitted border, this design incorporates its i-cord edging directly into the construction. The first two stitches of every row are knitted, while the last two stitches are slipped with yarn in front. Later, the first i-cord tie is joined to the live stitches of the bandana and becomes the edging itself.
This construction is worth paying attention to because the finished appearance depends not only on the lace pattern but also on keeping the edge stitches and increases relaxed. The pattern specifically instructs the knitter not to tighten these stitches.
Project Specifications
Before casting on, it is useful to record the essential specifications in one place. These measurements and materials are part of the original pattern and should be kept unchanged when following the instructions.
- Size: One size
- Finished measurements: Length without ties: 43cm/17in
- Finished height: 22cm/8.75in
- Gauge: 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) = 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette stitch after blocking
- Yarn: Drops Safran in the color lavender (uni color 05), 1 ball
- Main needles: 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles
- Tie needles: A pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs
- Notions: Tapestry needle, measuring tape, and scissors
Having the measuring tape nearby is particularly helpful when making the two ties because the pattern specifies an approximate tube length of 30 cm. The tapestry needle and scissors are needed during finishing.
What Makes the Construction Work?
The bandana begins with only 5 stitches and gradually becomes wider through paired increases on the right-side rows. At the same time, eyelet motifs are introduced into selected rows. The wrong-side rows provide a consistent purl-based return while preserving the two-stitch i-cord treatment at both edges.
There are therefore several systems working together:
- The central fabric expands through two increases.
- The eyelet pattern creates the decorative openwork.
- The first and last two stitches establish the i-cord edges.
- The live stitches remain available for the later edging construction.
- The i-cord ties extend from both ends of the finished bandana.
Understanding this overall structure can make the written instructions much easier to follow. You are not simply knitting a triangle and attaching ties afterward. The ties and edging are integrated into the construction of the piece.
Before You Begin: Gauge and Tension
The stated gauge is 24 stitches by 32 rows over 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) in stockinette stitch after blocking. Gauge is especially relevant if you want the finished fabric to approach the specified dimensions.
Because the gauge is measured after blocking, the final fabric should be evaluated after the blocking process rather than relying only on its appearance while it is still on the needles.
At the same time, the pattern’s edge instructions should remain in mind while knitting. The i-cord edge stitches are deliberately treated differently from the central stockinette fabric, so the tension of those stitches should not be forced to match the rest of the fabric by pulling them tightly.
The Stitch Language of the Pattern
The pattern uses a small collection of familiar knitting abbreviations, but two techniques are especially important: the paired M1 increases and the five-stitch eyelet sequence.
Increase Abbreviations
M1L means make 1 left, while M1R means make 1 right. Two stitches are increased on each right-side increase row, with M1R and M1L positioned around the central knitted section and the two-stitch i-cord edges.
The pattern notes that knitters who want to simplify the increase method may replace M1L and M1R with yarn overs.
The Eyelet Sequence
The eyelet pattern is:
k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk.
Here, k2tog means knit 2 stitches together, while ssk means slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip the next stitch knitwise, return the 2 stitches back to the left needle, and knit those 2 stitches together through the back loops.
The two yarn overs create the openings, while the decreases balance the stitch structure.
Edge Abbreviations
sl means slip a stitch as if to purl with yarn in front. The final two stitches of every row are treated this way as part of the i-cord edge.
Cast-On and Foundation
Cast on 5 stitches to begin the bandana.
The foundation is intentionally small because the triangular shape develops through repeated paired increases. Avoid trying to enlarge the cast-on section yourself. The original construction starts with exactly 5 stitches.
The set-up row is worked on the wrong side:
Set-up row (WS): k2, p1, sl2.
This establishes the five-stitch foundation while introducing the edge treatment that will remain throughout the main body.
Building the First Triangle Section
The first twelve rows establish the early shape and introduce the eyelet motif before the longer repeating section begins.
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, k1, M1L, sl2 (7sts).
Row 2: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 3: k2, M1R, k3, M1L, sl2 (9sts).
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 5: k2, M1R, eyelet pattern, M1L, sl2 (11sts).
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 7: k2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, sl2 (13sts).
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 9: k2, M1R, k2, eyelet pattern, k2, M1L, sl2 (15sts).
Row 10: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 11: k2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, sl2 (17sts).
Row 12: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
The stitch counts on the increase rows provide useful checkpoints: 7 stitches after Row 1, 9 stitches after Row 3, 11 stitches after Row 5, 13 stitches after Row 7, 15 stitches after Row 9, and 17 stitches after Row 11.
If your count is different at one of these points, it is better to investigate the discrepancy immediately than continue into the next section.
Reading the Eight-Row Main Repeat
Once Row 12 is complete, the pattern moves into its principal eight-row sequence. This section is repeated 7 more times or until you reach your desired length.
Rows 1 and 2: Lace and Return
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, *eyelet pattern, k3* until 5sts left, eyelet pattern, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Row 2 (WS): k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
The first row of the repeat combines the eyelet motif with the two increases. The second row returns across the fabric in purl while preserving the i-cord edges.
Rows 3 and 4: Plain Increase Pair
Row 3: k2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 3 is visually simpler because the central section is knitted rather than filled with the eyelet repeat. Even though it is simpler, the two increases remain essential to the triangular growth.
Rows 5 and 6: Offset Eyelet Section
Row 5: k2, M1R, k2, *eyelet pattern, k3* until 7sts left, eyelet pattern, k2, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
The placement of the eyelet pattern changes in this row, with k2 positioned before the repeated eyelet-and-k3 sections and another k2 before the final M1L and slipped edge stitches.
Rows 7 and 8: Another Plain Section
Row 7: k2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
These eight rows form the repeating rhythm of the main bandana fabric.
How to Stay Oriented During Repeats
Repeating lace patterns are easier to manage when you recognize the difference between the lace rows and the plain increase rows. In this design, Rows 1 and 5 of the main repeat contain the eyelet pattern, while Rows 3 and 7 are the straightforward increase rows.
The wrong-side rowsโRows 2, 4, 6, and 8โfollow the same basic instruction:
k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Keeping this rhythm in mind can make the eight-row repeat easier to navigate without changing any of the original instructions.
Repeat Rows 1โ8 7 more times or until you reach your desired length.
Completing the Main Body
When you have completed the desired number of repeats, break the yarn while leaving a 10cm (4โณ) long tail. The stitches remain on the needle.
This is a crucial transition point. The bandana is not finished by binding off these live stitches. Instead, the first i-cord tie will be connected to them and used to form the edging.
Set the bandana aside without disturbing those stitches while preparing the first tie.
First Tie: Building the I-Cord
Cast on 3 stitches using the 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs. Do not turn.
The i-cord is worked using the following repeated movement:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue knitting until the tube measures approximately 30 cm. Do not cut the yarn.
Unlike ordinary flat knitting, the work is not turned at the end of each pass. The stitches are moved to the other side of the needle and knitted again, allowing the fabric to form a narrow tube.
Turning the First Tie into the Border
Now comes one of the most distinctive parts of the pattern. Transfer the 3 i-cord stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
Work the first two i-cord stitches as knits. Then work an ssk, knitting the last i-cord stitch together with the first bandana stitch.
This first joining stitch attaches the i-cord to the edge of the bandana.
After that first connection, transfer the first 3 stitches to the needle while continuing to hold the live bandana stitches.
Repeat:
*k2, ssk, transfer 3 stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches*
Continue until only 3 stitches remain.
The repeated ssk joins the i-cord to successive bandana stitches, gradually creating a continuous knitted border.
Why the Edging Should Be Worked Carefully
The edging is more than a decorative finish. It establishes the boundary of the bandana and connects the first tie to the triangular body. Because it is worked directly from live stitches, mistakes at this stage can affect the finished outline.
Work methodically and pay attention to the three-stitch i-cord group. After knitting two i-cord stitches, the final i-cord stitch is joined with a bandana stitch using ssk. The three i-cord stitches are then transferred back into position for the next section.
The original instructions should be followed exactly during this transition because the stitch transfer is part of how the edging is constructed.
Second I-Cord Tie
Once the edging reaches the point where 3 stitches remain, continue by working the second i-cord tie in the same way as the first.
Use the same repeated instruction:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue until the tube measures approximately 30 cm.
For the second tie, bind off, cut the yarn, and weave in the tails.
Finishing Without Losing the Shape
The final appearance of a small lace accessory depends heavily on finishing. The specified gauge is measured after blocking, so blocking helps establish the intended fabric dimensions and allows the eyelet design to display clearly.
When handling the completed bandana, avoid pulling aggressively on the i-cord border. The pattern’s edge instructions are designed around relaxed stitches, and preserving that relaxed construction helps the border sit naturally around the triangular fabric.
The final dimensions to keep in mind are 43cm/17in in length without ties and 22cm/8.75in in height.
A Practical Error-Checking Method
When working a lace pattern, it can be tempting to continue knitting even when something looks slightly wrong. For this bandana, a better approach is to use the written structure as a checkpoint system.
Checkpoint One: The Foundation
Confirm that you began with exactly 5 stitches and completed the set-up row as written.
Checkpoint Two: Early Increase Rows
After the first twelve rows, the specified right-side stitch counts should be 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, and 17 at the appropriate rows.
Checkpoint Three: Two-Stitch Growth
In the main pattern, every right-side increase row marked โ2sts increasedโ adds two stitches. If the width is not progressing as expected, check the M1R and M1L on the latest increase row.
Checkpoint Four: Eyelet Sequence
Whenever the pattern calls for an eyelet pattern, use the complete sequence:
k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk.
Checkpoint Five: Live Stitches
At the end of the bandana body, do not bind off the live stitches. They are needed for the i-cord edging.
Common Questions About the Pattern
Is this pattern written for multiple sizes?
No. The pattern specifies one size.
What are the finished dimensions?
The finished length without ties is 43cm/17in, and the height is 22cm/8.75in.
How much yarn is required?
The pattern specifies 1 ball of Drops Safran in lavender, uni color 05.
Which needles are used?
The main bandana uses 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles. The ties use a pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs.
What is the specified gauge?
The gauge is 24 stitches by 32 rows over 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) in stockinette stitch after blocking.
Can I simplify the increases?
The pattern notes that M1L and M1R may be replaced with yarn overs if you want to simplify the pattern.
Do I bind off the bandana before making the first tie?
No. After the main bandana section is complete, break the yarn leaving a 10cm (4โณ) tail and set the bandana aside with the stitches still on the needle. The live stitches are then incorporated into the i-cord edging.
How long should the i-cord ties be?
Each tie is worked until the tube measures approximately 30 cm.
Mini Reference for the Lace Pattern
If you need to quickly verify the eyelet sequence while knitting, the complete eyelet pattern is:
k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk.
The main eight-row repeat then places this sequence according to the following written instructions:
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, *eyelet pattern, k3* until 5sts left, eyelet pattern, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Row 2 (WS): k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 3: k2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 5: k2, M1R, k2, *eyelet pattern, k3* until 7sts left, eyelet pattern, k2, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 7: k2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Repeat Rows 1โ8 7 more times or until you reach your desired length.
Visual Guide to the Construction
The original project photographs are useful reference points because the construction includes several stages that can look unfamiliar when described only in written instructions. The images show the bandana, its developing edge, and the transition between the i-cord and the live stitches.
When comparing your work with the photographs, focus on the overall construction rather than trying to match every small detail before the project has been blocked. Knitting tension and the current stage of construction can affect how the fabric looks on the needles.
Why This Is a Useful Small Knitting Project
The Flower Bed Bandana brings together several techniques that can be reused in other knitting projects. The paired M1 increases are useful for controlled shaping, the eyelet sequence provides practice with lace decreases and yarn overs, and the i-cord technique creates a clean narrow edge without requiring a separately attached border.
The project also provides practice in working with live stitches. Instead of completing the main body and finishing it independently, the live edge becomes part of the next stage. This is a useful construction concept for knitters who want to become more comfortable with seamless or integrated finishing methods.
Because the pattern uses only one ball of the specified yarn, the project remains relatively compact while still producing a finished accessory with a distinctive handmade appearance.
Final Project Checklist
- One size project.
- 43cm/17in finished length without ties.
- 22cm/8.75in finished height.
- Gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows over 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) after blocking.
- Drops Safran, lavender, uni color 05, 1 ball.
- 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles.
- A pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs for the ties.
- Tapestry needle, measuring tape, and scissors.
- Cast on 5 stitches.
- Complete the set-up row.
- Work the twelve set-up rows with the specified stitch counts.
- Work the eight-row pattern repeat.
- Repeat Rows 1โ8 7 more times or until the desired length is reached.
- Leave a 10cm (4โณ) yarn tail after breaking the yarn.
- Keep the bandana stitches live on the needle.
- Make the first 30 cm approximately i-cord.
- Attach the i-cord to the live bandana stitches using the specified edging method.
- Continue until 3 stitches remain.
- Work the second approximately 30 cm i-cord.
- Bind off and weave in the tails.
Final Thoughts on the Flower Bed Bandana
The Flower Bed Bandana is a compact project that demonstrates how much visual interest can be created from a relatively small number of knitting techniques. The triangular body starts from only 5 stitches and grows through carefully placed paired increases. The eyelet pattern adds an airy decorative element, while the integrated i-cord border gives the finished accessory a tidy outline.
The construction becomes especially interesting at the point where the first i-cord tie meets the live stitches. Rather than treating the border as an afterthought, the pattern uses those stitches as part of the final edge. This creates a continuous relationship between the tie, border, and triangular body.
For the cleanest result, keep the technical checkpoints in view throughout the project. The stated gauge is 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette stitch after blocking, the yarn is Drops Safran in lavender, uni color 05, and the main needles are 3mm (US 2.5). The two i-cord ties are also made with 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs and measure approximately 30 cm each.
Most importantly, resist the temptation to tighten the edge stitches or the increases. The original instructions specifically call for relaxed stitches in these areas. Maintaining that approach helps the i-cord edge remain flexible and allows the bandana fabric to develop its intended shape.
Once the final tie has been bound off and the tails woven in, the finished accessory has the stated dimensions of 43cm/17in in length without ties and 22cm/8.75in in height. The result is a lightweight knitted bandana with an eyelet design, integrated i-cord edging, and two practical ties.
With its combination of lace, shaping, and i-cord construction, this project is a useful addition to a knitter’s pattern collection. It is small enough to remain approachable, yet detailed enough to provide meaningful practice with several techniques that can be applied to larger handmade pieces.