Love Puff Bandana Crochet Tutorial: Master the Pattern, Sizing, Border and Ties

If you love crochet accessories that combine texture with a light, open fabric, the Love Puff Bandana is an especially charming project to explore. Its construction starts at a small point and expands into a triangle through alternating puff-stitch and openwork rows. Once the main section reaches the desired width, a scalloped shell border frames the shape, and long crocheted ties complete the design.

This final article in the series is presented as a complete masterclass and finishing reference. It keeps the technical information from the original Love Puff Bandana pattern unchanged, including the yarn and hook specifications, US terminology, gauge, sizing measurements, every main-body row from Row 1 through Row 35, stitch counts, border instructions, shell totals, tie repeats, and the designer’s shaping notes. fileciteturn0file0

Project Overview

The Love Puff Bandana is worked as a triangle with a decorative texture created by HDC3PUFF motifs. The main fabric alternates between rows containing puff stitches and rows containing double crochet, single crochet, and chain spaces. As the work grows, each odd row beginning with Row 3 gains an extra repeat, and each even row beginning with Row 4 gains an extra repeat.

This means the pattern has a built-in expansion system. You do not need to memorize a new construction for every row. Instead, the same basic motif is repeated more times as the triangle becomes wider. The printed stitch count at the end of each row is a valuable checkpoint and should be treated as part of the instructions.

The project is available in three stated sizes. Size S stops at Row 27 and is intended to measure 36 cm or 14 inches wide. Size M stops at Row 31 for 43 cm or 17 inches. Size L stops at Row 35 for 50 cm or 20 inches.

Materials: Keep the Original Specification

• Yarn: One 50 g skein of weight 1 cotton yarn.
• Reference yarn: 170 m or 186 yds per 50 g.
• Hook: 3.5 mm or E-4.
• Crochet terms: US terms.

The source explains that the thicker yarn and larger hook shown in some demonstration material are simply for demonstration. They should not be interpreted as a replacement for the actual project materials.

Abbreviations and the Signature Puff Stitch

• YO: yarn over
• ST: stitch
• CH: chain
• CH-3 SP: chain-3 space
• SL ST: slip stitch
• SC: single crochet
• DC: double crochet
• HDC3PUFF: half double crochet 3 puff stitch

The HDC3PUFF is made by working (YO, insert hook, YO, pull up a loop)×3 into the same stitch, YO, pull through 6 loops, YO, pull through both loops. This stitch creates the raised motifs that make the finished bandana immediately recognizable.

Four Rules to Read Before Starting

The pattern includes several notes that are easy to overlook but important for accurate counting. CH 3 at the beginning of a row does count as a ST on top of the DC in the previous row, so the HDC3PUFF should be in the next DC.

CH 1 does not count as a ST. CH 3 between puff stitches does not count as a ST. CH 2 between SC and DC does not count as a ST.

These rules explain the relationship between the visible open spaces and the stitch counts printed after the rows. When your visual count seems different from the numerical count, return to these rules rather than adding or removing stitches on your own.

Gauge and Measuring for the Right Size

The designer notes that gauge is not super important and does not have to be matched. It is included for crocheters who want to follow the stated finished sizes. The gauge is 15.5 cm or 5.6 inches wide for 19 stitches (row 11) × 9.4 cm or 3.7 inches tall for 11 rows.

For choosing the size, measure from one earlobe, up on your head where you want the flat edge of the bandana to sit, and down to the other earlobe. This is the width of the bandana excluding strings.

• Size S: 27 rows for width of 36 cm or 14 inches.
• Size M: 31 rows for width of 43 cm or 17 inches.
• Size L: 35 rows for width of 50 cm or 20 inches.

Because the border follows the main body, the number of shells also corresponds to the number of rows in the main part. This relationship makes the final size checkpoint particularly important.

Part One: Crochet the Main Triangle

The first stage is the foundation of the entire project. Begin with the small central point and let the alternating row structure gradually create the triangle.

Row 1

CH 1+3, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF, DC) all into the 1st CH. Turn. (4)

Row 2

CH 3+1, DC in the DC from the previous row, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in the 3rd CH from the previous row. Turn. (5)

Row 3

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in the DC, DC in the SC]×1, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in the DC, DC in the 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (7)

Row 4

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×1, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (7)

Row 5

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×2, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (10)

Row 6

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×2, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (9)

How to Read the Expanding Pattern

From Row 7 onward, it helps to identify the two row families. Puff rows carry the HDC3PUFF motifs. Openwork rows place SC in the CH-3 SP and use CH 2 spaces around the DC stitches. The repeat number grows as the project widens.

Row 7

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×3, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (13)

Row 8

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×3, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (11)

Row 9

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×4, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (16)

Row 10

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×4, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (13)

Row 11

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×4, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (19)

Row 12

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×4, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (15)

Row 11 is also the row referenced in the gauge information. If you want to compare your tension, this is the point mentioned by the designer.

The Middle Rows: Maintain the Pattern Rather Than Memorizing It

Rows 13 through 24 are where the growing triangle begins to look much more substantial. The key is to maintain the alternating structure and use the exact repeat count printed for each row.

Rows 13–18

Row 13: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×5, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (22)

Row 14: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×5, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (17)

Row 15: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×6, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (25)

Row 16: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×6, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (19)

Row 17: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×7, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (28)

Row 18: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×7, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (21)

Rows 19–24

Row 19: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×8, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (31)

Row 20: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×8, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (23)

Row 21: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×9, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (34)

Row 22: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×9, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (25)

Row 23: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×10, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (37)

Row 24: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×10, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (27)

The Three Final Main-Body Checkpoints

The final rows are where the size decision becomes concrete. The source gives three stopping points rather than requiring a separate shaping formula for each size.

Size S: Rows 25–27

Row 25: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×11, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (40)

Row 26: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×11, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (29)

Row 27: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×12, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Stop here for size S. Turn. (43)

Size M: Rows 28–31

Row 28: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×12, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (31)

Row 29: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×13, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (46)

Row 30: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×13, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (33)

Row 31: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×14, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Stop here for size M. Turn. (49)

Size L: Rows 32–35

Row 32: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×14, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (35)

Row 33: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×15, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (52)

Row 34: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×15, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (37)

Row 35: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×16, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Stop here for size L. (55)

Preparing for the Shell Border

Before beginning the shell border, the source says to rotate the bandana 135° so you can start crocheting along the side. Make sure you have an odd number of rows for the main part. In other words, you should have ended with the puff-stitch row.

This is more than a cosmetic instruction. The border is designed around the side-row structure created by the alternating main-body rows. Starting from the correct final row makes the shell sequence line up with the intended edge.

Shell Border for Size S

Side 1: DC 5 in the same ST you ended the puff stitch row on (3rd CH in the top of row 26), [SL ST into the next row (top of the DC), DC 5 in the row after that (3rd CH)]*12 (repeats), SL ST into the top of row 1 (top of the DC).

Bottom: DC 7 into the 1st CH of the bandana.

Side 2: Rotate it 100° and SL ST into the first row on the other side. Then continue up the other side in the same way with DC 5 and SL ST alternating every other row.

You should end up with 27 shells in total. Don’t cut the yarn!

Shell Border for Size M

Side 1: DC 5 in the same ST you ended the puff stitch row on (3rd CH in the top of row 30), [SL ST into the next row (top of the DC), DC 5 in the row after that (3rd CH)]*14 (repeats), SL ST into the top of row 1 (top of the DC).

Bottom: DC 7 into the 1st CH of the bandana.

Side 2: Rotate it 100° and SL ST into the first row on the other side. Then continue up the other side in the same way with DC 5 and SL ST alternating every other row. 31 shells in total. Don’t cut the yarn!

Shell Border for Size L

Side 1: DC 5 in the same ST you ended the puff stitch row on (3rd CH in the top of row 34), [SL ST into the next row (top of the DC), DC 5 in the row after that (3rd CH)]*16 (repeats), SL ST into the top of row 1 (top of the DC.

Bottom: DC 7 into the 1st CH of the bandana.

Side 2: Rotate it 100° and SL ST into the first row on the other side. Then continue up the other side in the same way with DC 5 and SL ST alternating every other row. 35 shells in total. Don’t cut the yarn!

The Important 7-DC Bottom Shell Change

If you compare the written pattern with the photographs, you may notice that some visual examples appear to show 5 DC at the bottom. This is explained in the source: the designer changed the bottom shell from 5 DC to 7 DC to prevent the border from curling.

Therefore, the written instruction should be followed as DC 7 for the bottom shell. The older 5-DC appearance in some photographs is not a reason to alter the current written instruction.

How to Handle Width and Shape

If you have tight tension and do not want the bandana to end up too narrow, the source offers a wider version of the chain spacing. Use CH 4 instead of CH 3 between HDC3PUFFs. Also use CH 3 instead of CH 2 between the SCs and DCs.

The same suggestion can be used if you want to make a shawl instead of a bandana: work the shell border and SCs on top but leave out the strings.

If the bandana has already been finished, the designer suggests tugging at every row to stretch it wider. This is useful when the finished piece is slightly narrower than expected without requiring any change to the established stitch pattern.

Correcting the Natural Side Slant

The source points out that, due to the nature of crochet, the bandana can slant more to one side. If you are right-handed, it may be slightly wider on the left side. If you are left-handed, it may be slightly wider on the right side.

The suggested solution is blocking. Pin along the middle and stretch the narrow side as much as you can. This focuses the blocking on the side that needs correction rather than stretching the entire bandana equally.

Finishing with the Ties

The ties are the final structural step. Each begins with CH 80, followed by SC along the chain. The pattern then moves through the last puff-stitch row using a size-specific repeat before creating the second CH 80 tie.

Size S Ties

CH 80, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SC in 3rd CH of the last puff stitch row, [SC in HDC3PUFF, SC 3 in CH-3 SP, SC in HDC3PUFF, SC in DC]*14, CH 80, rotate 180°, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SL ST into the DC. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Size M Ties

CH 80, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SC in 3rd CH of the last puff stitch row, [SC in HDC3PUFF, SC 3 in CH-3 SP, SC in HDC3PUFF, SC in DC]*16, CH 80, rotate 180°, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SL ST into the DC. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Size L Ties

CH 80, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SC in 3rd CH of the last puff stitch row, [SC in HDC3PUFF, SC 3 in CH-3 SP, SC in HDC3PUFF, SC in DC]*18, CH 80, rotate 180°, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SL ST into the DC. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Right-Handed and Left-Handed Versions

The pattern includes dedicated right-handed and left-handed diagrams for the main rows, shell border, and ties. These visual references are especially useful if you prefer to see the direction of the work represented according to your dominant hand.

Use the diagrams as visual support while keeping the written instructions as the technical reference. The row numbers, stitch counts, repeat counts, and size stopping points should remain exactly as stated.

Pattern Adjustment Rules

One of the useful features of the source is that it explains how the size can be adjusted beyond S, M, and L. Because the odd rows and even rows each gain an additional repeat, you can subtract or add rows in multiples of 2 for a smaller or larger size. The final number of rows must remain odd.

This is a structural adjustment rather than a new pattern formula. The source does not provide additional finished measurements for those custom sizes, so no extra measurements should be assumed. Use the stated measurement method to determine the desired width.

Beginner Master Checklist

1. Prepare one 50 g skein of weight 1 cotton yarn.
2. Use a 3.5 mm or E-4 hook.
3. Work using US crochet terms.
4. Review the HDC3PUFF instructions before starting.
5. Remember that beginning CH 3 counts as a ST.
6. Do not count CH 1 as a ST.
7. Do not count CH 3 between puff stitches as a ST.
8. Do not count CH 2 between SC and DC as a ST.
9. Use the printed stitch count as a checkpoint after each row.
10. Measure for the desired S, M, or L width.
11. Finish the main body on an odd-numbered puff row.
12. Rotate 135° before beginning the shell border.
13. Use DC 7 for the bottom shell.
14. Rotate 100° for the second side as instructed.
15. Keep the yarn attached after the border.
16. Work the correct size-specific tie repeat.
17. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
18. Block the finished piece if you want to correct the natural side slant.

Quick Troubleshooting

The stitch count is wrong.

Check whether you accidentally counted a non-counting chain as a stitch. The pattern specifically says that CH 1, CH 3 between puff stitches, and CH 2 between SC and DC do not count. Also remember that the beginning CH 3 does count as a stitch.

The fabric is too narrow.

If your tension is tight, use the source’s wider-spacing option: CH 4 between HDC3PUFFs and CH 3 between SCs and DCs. For an already completed bandana, gently tug each row to stretch it wider.

The triangle is slightly wider on one side.

This can happen naturally with crochet. The source recommends blocking by pinning along the middle and stretching the narrow side as much as possible.

The bottom shell curls.

Make sure the bottom shell is DC 7. The designer changed it from 5 DC to 7 DC specifically to prevent curling.

The tutorial photographs look different from my yarn.

The source explains that the thicker yarn and larger hook shown in the demonstration are for demonstration. The actual project uses weight 1 cotton yarn and a 3.5 mm or E-4 hook.

Size and Finishing Reference Table

• Size S: Main body through Row 27; 36 cm or 14 inches; 27 shells; tie repeat ×14.
• Size M: Main body through Row 31; 43 cm or 17 inches; 31 shells; tie repeat ×16.
• Size L: Main body through Row 35; 50 cm or 20 inches; 35 shells; tie repeat ×18.

Understanding the Relationship Between Rows and Shells

The border is designed to mirror the scale of the main body. The source states that the number of shells for the border is the same as the number of rows for the main part. This is reflected directly in the three standard sizes: 27 main-body rows and 27 shells for S, 31 rows and 31 shells for M, and 35 rows and 35 shells for L.

This relationship also explains why the project needs to finish on an odd row. The final main-body row is a puff row, and the border construction begins from that edge and works around the triangle.

Working Without Losing Your Place

For a long row such as Row 35, it can be helpful to identify the repeat structure before beginning. The written instruction tells you exactly how many times the bracketed section is repeated. Work the repeat, check your position, and then continue until the stated count is complete.

The same strategy applies to the even rows. Instead of thinking about the whole width at once, recognize the repeating unit containing CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, and DC in DC. This keeps the openwork rhythm organized while the triangle expands.

The printed stitch counts are particularly valuable after the longer rows. They provide a quick way to detect a missed puff or an extra stitch before the next row makes the mistake harder to locate.

Video and PDF Reader Note

The source includes video tutorials for the right-handed and left-handed versions of the rows, shell border, and ties. It notes that the video links have been observed to be clickable when the file is opened through the Google Drive PDF reader but not with Word PDF. If a link does not work correctly, trying another PDF reader may help.

The shell-border demonstration also uses 5 shells instead of 7 like the pictures, and the source specifically explains the bottom-shell change. Keep the written instruction of DC 7 for the bottom shell when making the current version of the pattern.

Final Finishing Advice

Once the final tie is complete, fasten off and weave in the ends. Lay the bandana flat and inspect the triangle, shell border, and ties together. If the fabric has a slight natural slant, use the blocking method described by the designer rather than altering stitches after the fact.

Also compare the final width with the measurement you selected. The stated finished widths are 36 cm or 14 inches for S, 43 cm or 17 inches for M, and 50 cm or 20 inches for L. These measurements exclude the strings.

Remember that the pattern’s gauge is only a reference. The source specifically states that gauge is not super important and does not have to be matched. Tension can therefore affect the final size, which is why the earlobe-to-earlobe measurement is such a useful guide.

Love Puff Bandana: Final Quick Reference

• Pattern: Love Puff Bandana
• Designer: Silent Bloom Crochet
• Copyright: Original Pattern © 2026 Silent Bloom Crochet
• Yarn: One 50 g skein of weight 1 cotton yarn
• Reference yarn: 170 m or 186 yds per 50 g
• Hook: 3.5 mm or E-4
• Terms: US crochet terms
• Gauge: 15.5 cm or 5.6 inches wide for 19 stitches (row 11) × 9.4 cm or 3.7 inches tall for 11 rows
• Size S: Row 27, 36 cm or 14 inches, 27 shells
• Size M: Row 31, 43 cm or 17 inches, 31 shells
• Size L: Row 35, 50 cm or 20 inches, 35 shells
• Bottom shell: DC 7
• Ties: CH 80 for each tie

Conclusion

The Love Puff Bandana is a satisfying project because its decorative appearance comes from a repeatable construction. The HDC3PUFF provides the raised texture, the openwork rows keep the triangle light, the shell border creates a scalloped frame, and the long ties turn the crocheted triangle into a wearable accessory.

The most reliable way to work the pattern is to treat each section as a checkpoint. First establish the puff-stitch point, then follow the alternating odd and even rows, check the stitch counts, and stop at the correct row for your selected size. Once the main body is finished on an odd puff row, the shell border can be added using the appropriate side repeats and the 7-DC bottom shell.

Finally, add the CH 80 ties using the repeat count for your size, weave in the ends, and use blocking if necessary to improve the natural side-to-side slant. With the original technical instructions kept intact and the visual references placed alongside the relevant stages, the project becomes much easier to understand from beginning to end.

Pattern credit: Love Puff Bandana by Silent Bloom Crochet, Original Pattern © 2026. The source states that finished items may be sold with credit to the designer and asks that the original pattern and photographs not be copied, shared, or reposted.