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Garden Vines Bandana Knitting Pattern: A Complete Stitch-by-Stitch Construction Guide

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The Garden Vines Bandana is a one-size knitted accessory designed around a delicate lace rib structure and a clearly planned triangular construction. Rather than treating the project as a single long sequence of instructions, this guide approaches it as a construction journey: begin at the tip, establish the opening, build the patterned width with regular increases, then reverse the shaping and finish at the opposite tip.

Note: All 9 original source images are embedded in the accompanying HTML as self-contained image data, so they do not depend on local computer paths, sandbox URLs, or temporary chat links when the HTML is copied into WordPress.

Project at a Glance

The pattern is Garden Vines Bandana Ver 1.3, designed by Gerda Wolf / My Knit Projects. It is a knitting pattern for one size. The recommended yarn is Sunny Linen by Majo Garn, with 50 g providing 150 m. The pattern offers two yarn-use options: Option A uses 150 meters / 164 yards, while Option B uses 115 meters / 125 yards.

  • Needles: 3.5 mm / US 4
  • Gauge: 30 stitches and 28 rows = 10 cm / 4โ€ in lace rib pattern on 3.5 mm / US 4 needles
  • Option A finished size: length 90 cm / 36โ€, width 20 cm / 8โ€
  • Option B finished size: length 90 cm / 36โ€, width 10 cm / 4โ€
  • Recommended bandana length: at least 80โ€“100 cm / 32โ€“40โ€

Understand the Shape Before You Knit

The most useful way to visualize this project is as a controlled triangle. The work begins at the tip. On the right-side rows, increases gradually add width until the project reaches the desired size. After the widest point is established, the shaping changes direction and decreases are used to move toward the opposite tip.

This gives the project three broad phases: opening and setup, increasing through the lace rib pattern, and decreasing toward the final tip. Understanding those phases before starting can prevent the most common source of confusion: expecting the entire pattern to behave like a straight scarf.

The construction is also deliberately flexible. For a larger shawl, additional repeats can be added. For a small scarf, a straight section can be worked. The source recommends a finished bandana or small triangle scarf length of at least 80โ€“100 cm / 32โ€“40โ€.

Materials, Yarn Options, and Gauge

For the closest match to the sample, use Sunny Linen by Majo Garn, where 50 g equals 150 m. Option A requires 150 meters / 164 yards and produces the wider sample at 20 cm / 8โ€ wide. Option B requires 115 meters / 125 yards and produces the narrower 10 cm / 4โ€ width.

The recommended needle is 3.5 mm / US 4. The stated gauge is 30 stitches and 28 rows over 10 cm / 4โ€ in the lace rib pattern. Even so, the source states that the pattern works when gauge is not met and can be worked with different yarns and needles. The important point is that changing those variables can change the finished measurements.

Reading the Pattern Language

  • CO = Cast on
  • k = Knit
  • k2tog = Knit 2 together
  • k3tog = Knit 3 together
  • ssk = Slip, slip, knit
  • m1l / m1lp = Make 1 left / make 1 left purlwise
  • p = Purl
  • p2tog = Purl 2 together
  • RS = Right side
  • sl2 k1 p2sso = Slip 2 sts knitwise, k1, pass two slipped stitches over
  • sl2p wyif = Slip 2 sts purlwise with yarn in front
  • st(s) = Stitch(es)
  • WS = Wrong side
  • yo = Yarn over

Important Stitch Motions

For m1l / m1lp, insert the left needle under the bar formed by the stitch just knitted and the next stitch, front to back, then knit or purl through the back loop.

For k2tog, insert the right needle knitwise into the first two stitches on the left needle and knit them together. For k3tog, insert the right needle knitwise into the first three stitches on the left needle and knit them together.

For ssk, slip the first and second stitches knitwise, return them to the left needle, and knit them together through the back loops.

For sl2 k1 p2sso, slip the next two stitches as if to k2tog, knit the next stitch, and pass the two slipped stitches over.

The Chart Key: Your Visual Road Map

A blank square means knit on the RS and purl on the WS. A black dot means purl on the RS and knit on the WS. An open circle represents a yarn over. The diagonal decrease symbols represent ssk and k2tog. Grey squares are no-stitch spaces. The edge symbol means slip 1 purlwise with yarn at the back on the RS and yarn in front on the WS. The increase symbols represent m1l and m1lp.

Opening Section: Rows 1โ€“21

The opening establishes the narrow tip and introduces the edge treatment and central pattern language. These first rows should be treated as a checkpoint because they create the foundation for the later repeats.

  1. Row 1 (WS): Sl2p wyif, p1, sl2p wyif.
  2. Row 2 (RS): K5.
  3. Row 3: Sl2p wyif, p1, sl2p wyif.
  4. Row 4: K2, p1, m1lp, k2.
  5. Row 5: Sl2p wyif, k2, sl2p wyif.
  6. Row 6: K2, p1, m1l, p1, k2.
  7. Row 7: Sl2p wyif, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
  8. Row 8: K2, p1, m1l, k1, p1, k2.
  9. Row 9: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
  10. Row 10: K2, p1, m1lp, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
  11. Row 11: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k2, sl2p wyif.
  12. Row 12: K2, p1, m1l, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
  13. Row 13: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
  14. Row 14: K2, p1, m1l, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
  15. Row 15: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
  16. Row 16: K2, p1, m1lp, k2, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
  17. Row 17: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k2, sl2p wyif.
  18. Row 18: K2, p1, m1l, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
  19. Row 19: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
  20. Row 20: K2, p1, m1l, k1, p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
  21. Row 21: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.

Building Width with the 12-Row Increase Repeat

After the opening, the main body uses a 12-row repeat. The right-side rows contain the shaping increases and lace actions, while the wrong-side rows preserve the rib structure and edge treatment.

  1. Row 1 (RS): K2, p1, m1lp, k2tog, yo, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo* repeat to 3 sts before end, p1, k2.
  2. Row 2 (WS): Sl2p wyif, k1, *p2, k1* repeat to 3 sts before end, k1, sl2p wyif.
  3. Row 3: K2, p1, m1l, p1, yo, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk* repeat to 3 sts before end, p1, k2.
  4. Row 4: Sl2p wyif, k1, *p2, k1* repeat to 4 sts before end, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
  5. Row 5: K2, p1, m1l, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo* repeat to 3 sts before end, p1, k2.
  6. Row 6: Sl2p wyif, k1, *p2, k1* repeat to 5 sts before end, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
  7. Row 7: K2, p1, m1lp, k2, p1, yo, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk* repeat to 3 sts before end, p1, k2.
  8. Row 8: Sl2p wyif, k1, *p2, k1* repeat to 3 sts before end, k1, sl2p wyif.
  9. Row 9: K2, p1, m1l, *p1, k2, p1, k2tog, yo* repeat to 3 sts before end, p1, k2.
  10. Row 10: Sl2p wyif, k1, *p2, k1* repeat to 4 sts before end, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
  11. Row 11: K2, p1, m1l, k1, *p1, k2, p1, yo, ssk* repeat to 3 sts before end, p1, k2.
  12. Row 12: Sl2p wyif, k1, *p2, k1* repeat to 5 sts before end, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.

For Option A, work rows 1โ€“12 until halfway to the desired length or until half of the yarn has been used. In the sample, the increasing section stopped after reaching 71 stitches on a row 6 repeat.

For Option B, stop after row 12 with 26, 32, or 38 stitches to preserve the lace rib symmetry, then work the straight section before beginning the decreases.

Pattern Checkpoints While Increasing

When working repeated lace, it is easy to focus on the increase and overlook the internal repeat. A useful approach is to verify the edge stitches first, then check the increase and decrease pair, and finally confirm that the yarn over is sitting in the expected lace column.

Moving from Increases to Decreases

The transition is not arbitrary. The source gives six specific pairings between the last wrong-side increase row and the first right-side decrease row:

  • Last WS increase Row 2 โ†’ First RS decrease Row 1
  • Last WS increase Row 4 โ†’ First RS decrease Row 11
  • Last WS increase Row 6 โ†’ First RS decrease Row 9
  • Last WS increase Row 8 โ†’ First RS decrease Row 7
  • Last WS increase Row 10 โ†’ First RS decrease Row 5
  • Last WS increase Row 12 โ†’ First RS decrease Row 3

If the last RS increase row used k2tog-yo, use Chart 3 for rows 1, 5, and 9 and Chart 4 for rows 3, 7, and 11. If the last RS increase row used yo-ssk, use Chart 4 for rows 1, 5, and 9 and Chart 3 for rows 3, 7, and 11. Once selected, continue the same chart and do not switch.

Decrease Charts and the Narrowing Triangle

Chart 3 contains 12 rows and is repeated until 13 stitches remain, then Chart 5 is used. Chart 4 also contains 12 rows and is repeated until 9 stitches remain, then Chart 6 is used.

The most important practical lesson is to preserve the selected chart logic. The two charts are not interchangeable halfway through the decrease phase. The correct choice depends on which right-side increase row was last worked.

Final 17 Rows: Chart 5

  1. Row 1 (RS): K2, p1, p2tog, k2, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
  2. Row 2 (WS): Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k2, sl2p wyif.
  3. Row 3: K2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
  4. Row 4: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
  5. Row 5: K2, p1, k2tog, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
  6. Row 6: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
  7. Row 7: K2, p1, p2tog, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
  8. Row 8: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k2, sl2p wyif.
  9. Row 9: K2, p1, yo, sl2 k1 p2sso, p1, k2.
  10. Row 10: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
  11. Row 11: K2, p1, k2tog, p1, k2.
  12. Row 12: Sl2p wyif, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
  13. Row 13: K2, p1, p2tog, k2.
  14. Row 14: Sl2p wyif, k2, sl2p wyif.
  15. Row 15: K2, k2tog, k2.
  16. Row 16: Sl2p wyif, p1, sl2p wyif.
  17. Row 17: Bind off all sts.

Final 17 Rows: Chart 6

  1. Row 1 (RS): K2, p1, p2tog, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
  2. Row 2 (WS): Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k2, sl2p wyif.
  3. Row 3: K2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
  4. Row 4: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
  5. Row 5: K2, p1, k2tog, p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2.
  6. Row 6: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
  7. Row 7: K2, p1, p2tog, yo, ssk, p1, k2.
  8. Row 8: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k2, sl2p wyif.
  9. Row 9: K2, p1, yo, k3tog, p1, k2.
  10. Row 10: Sl2p wyif, k1, p2, k1, sl2p wyif.
  11. Row 11: K2, p1, k2tog, p1, k2.
  12. Row 12: Sl2p wyif, k1, p1, k1, sl2p wyif.
  13. Row 13: K2, p1, p2tog, k2.
  14. Row 14: Sl2p wyif, k2, sl2p wyif.
  15. Row 15: K2, k2tog, k2.
  16. Row 16: Sl2p wyif, p1, sl2p wyif.
  17. Row 17: Bind off all sts.

How to Keep the Lace Rib Symmetrical

Symmetry is one of the easiest qualities to judge visually, so it is also one of the best ways to catch mistakes. The edge treatment should look balanced from one side to the other, while the lace openings should develop in an organized sequence. Compare one completed repeat with the corresponding area of the previous repeat rather than trying to judge the entire bandana after every row.

For Option B in particular, the source gives the specific stopping counts of 26, 32, or 38 stitches after row 12. Those numbers are not interchangeable if you want to preserve the stated lace rib symmetry.

Common Troubleshooting Points

The stitch count seems wrong

First check whether the problem began on a right-side increase row. The m1l or m1lp creates a new stitch, while the decrease and yarn-over sequence controls the lace structure. Then inspect the edge stitches, because the repeated sl2p wyif treatment can be easy to overlook.

The lace holes are not lining up

Look specifically at the yarn overs and their paired decreases. The pattern deliberately alternates k2tog-yo and yo-ssk arrangements across different rows. A missed yarn over or a decrease worked in the wrong location can shift the visual column.

The decrease transition is confusing

Return to the last RS increase row you worked. Identify whether it used k2tog-yo or yo-ssk, then use the corresponding chart rule. Also use the six explicit transition pairings rather than choosing the first decrease row by appearance.

The finished size is different from the sample

The source states that measurements are based on the sample and that yarn and needle choice can change the measurements. Gauge is 30 stitches and 28 rows = 10 cm / 4โ€ in lace rib on 3.5 mm / US 4 needles, although the pattern can still work when gauge is not met.

A Practical Workflow for the Whole Project

  1. Prepare Sunny Linen by Majo Garn or another yarn selected with the source’s flexibility in mind.
  2. Use 3.5 mm / US 4 needles for the recommended setup.
  3. Keep the abbreviation list and chart key nearby.
  4. Work the opening Rows 1โ€“21 without changing the sequence.
  5. Move into the 12-row increase repeat.
  6. For Option A, stop the increasing phase halfway through the desired length or after half the yarn is used; the sample stopped after reaching 71 stitches on a row 6 repeat.
  7. For Option B, stop after row 12 at 26, 32, or 38 stitches, then work the straight section.
  8. Identify the correct decrease transition from the last WS increase row.
  9. Choose Chart 3 or Chart 4 according to the last RS increase-row sequence and continue with that chart.
  10. Finish with Chart 5 when 13 stitches remain or Chart 6 when 9 stitches remain.
  11. Complete the final 17 rows and bind off all stitches on row 17.

Quick Reference for Size Choices

  • One size: The pattern is written as one size.
  • Option A: 150 meters / 164 yards; finished length 90 cm / 36โ€; width 20 cm / 8โ€.
  • Option B: 115 meters / 125 yards; finished length 90 cm / 36โ€; width 10 cm / 4โ€.
  • Recommended bandana length: at least 80โ€“100 cm / 32โ€“40โ€.
  • Needles: 3.5 mm / US 4.
  • Gauge: 30 sts and 28 rows = 10 cm / 4โ€ in lace rib pattern.

Why the Construction Works So Well

The strength of this design is that the shaping and lace are integrated rather than treated as separate decorations. Increases expand the triangle while the lace pattern continues to organize the fabric. Later, the decrease charts reverse that visual movement and guide the fabric back toward the opposite tip.

That is also why it helps to think of each repeat as a small unit. Instead of trying to remember the entire bandana, work one 12-row block, verify it, and then move forward. The same approach makes the chart transition much less intimidating.

Final Finishing Checklist

  • Confirm that the final shaping was completed with the correct chart.
  • Confirm that the final row 17 is a complete bind-off of all stitches.
  • Compare the finished length with the intended 90 cm / 36โ€ sample measurement.
  • Remember that yarn and needle choice can affect final measurements.
  • Check the lace columns for consistent yarn-over and decrease placement.
  • Look at the edge treatment along both sides for a balanced appearance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this a crochet pattern?

No. Garden Vines Bandana is a knitting pattern. The instructions use knitting techniques such as k2tog, ssk, yarn overs, and slipped stitches.

What size needles are recommended?

The source recommends 3.5 mm / US 4 needles.

What yarn is recommended?

The recommended yarn is Sunny Linen by Majo Garn, with 50 g = 150 m.

How much yarn does the pattern use?

Option A uses 150 meters / 164 yards. Option B uses 115 meters / 125 yards.

What are the finished measurements?

Both options have a finished length of 90 cm / 36โ€. Option A is 20 cm / 8โ€ wide, while Option B is 10 cm / 4โ€ wide.

Do I have to match the gauge?

The stated gauge is 30 stitches and 28 rows = 10 cm / 4โ€ in lace rib pattern on 3.5 mm / US 4 needles. However, the source states that the pattern works even if gauge is not met and can be worked with different yarns and needles. Different choices can change the measurements.

Can the design be made larger?

Yes. The source notes that the construction can be modified by adding repeats for a larger shawl.

Can it be made into a small scarf?

Yes. The construction can be modified by working a straight section for a small scarf.

Conclusion

Garden Vines Bandana is a compact project with a surprisingly rich construction. Its tip-to-tip shaping, lace rib texture, controlled increases, carefully matched decrease transition, and two size options make it a useful project for knitters who want to practice reading both written instructions and charts.

The key to a smooth experience is organization: understand the construction first, keep the chart key visible, work the 12-row repeats as clear checkpoints, record the last increase row before starting the decreases, and follow the correct chart without switching midway.

The result is a one-size bandana with a 90 cm / 36โ€ finished length, available in the wider Option A or narrower Option B construction, and a lace pattern that gives the finished piece its distinctive garden-vine character.

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