The Summer Veil Bandana is a delicate knitted accessory that combines a triangular silhouette with an airy Quatrefoil eyelet lace stitch. The project is worked with sport-weight cotton yarn and uses a combination of yarnovers, k2tog decreases, and ssk decreases to create its decorative openwork.
Unlike a project that is knitted in the round, this bandana is worked back and forth. It starts at the bottom edge and grows upward, with increases worked on the right side. The construction also includes a useful built-in border: the first and last 2 stitches form an i-cord edging that keeps the edges neat and helps prevent curling.
Once the main triangle reaches the desired length, the construction changes slightly. The yarn is broken, leaving a 10cm (4โณ) tail, while the live stitches remain on the needle. A separate i-cord tie is then made, connected to the live stitches, and worked across the edge. The final 3 stitches become the foundation for the second tie.
This article presents the project as a complete construction guide, with particular attention to the transition between the lace triangle, i-cord edging, and ties.
Summer Veil Bandana at a Glance
The original pattern is written for one size. The finished bandana measures 49cm/19.25in. in length without the ties and 24cm/9.5in. in height.
- Size: One size
- Finished length without ties: 49cm/19.25in.
- Height: 24cm/9.5in.
- Gauge: 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) = 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette stitch after blocking.
- Yarn: Drops Safran in the color marzipan (uni color 71), 1 ball.
- Main needles: 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles.
- Tie needles: A pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs.
- Notions: Tapestry needle, measuring tape, and scissors.
The pattern can also be modified in size by adding or subtracting repeats. The main lace section is built around an 8-row sequence, making the repeat structure the basis for this adjustment.
Materials Before You Cast On
Yarn Requirements
The specified yarn is Drops Safran in the color marzipan (uni color 71). The pattern calls for 1 ball.
The project is designed with sport-weight cotton yarn. Using the specified yarn gives you the original fiber and yarn characteristics used for the design.
Needles
The bandana is worked using 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles. For the i-cord ties, the pattern specifies a pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs.
Other Supplies
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
The measuring tape is useful for checking the stated finished dimensions as well as the approximately 30 cm length required for each i-cord tie.
Understanding the Edge Before Starting
A particularly important feature of this pattern is that the first and last 2 stitches form the i-cord edging. These stitches are not simply part of the lace pattern. They create the clean outer borders of the bandana.
The edge is maintained throughout the setup and main pattern sections. On the wrong side, the instructions repeatedly use k2 at the beginning and sl2 at the end. This makes the border easy to identify once you become familiar with the rhythm.
The edging also explains why the finished bandana has a neat outline despite being made with an open lace stitch. The i-cord treatment helps prevent the edges from curling.
The Lace Design: Quatrefoil Eyelet Stitch
The central fabric uses the Quatrefoil eyelet lace stitch. The pattern describes this stitch as a combination of yarnovers and right-leaning and left-leaning decreases.
The yarnovers create the eyelets that make the fabric look light and open. The decreases shape the lace structure and balance the increases that are used to widen the triangle.
Two decreases appear in the instructions: k2tog and ssk. The k2tog means knitting 2 stitches together, while the ssk requires slipping 1 stitch knitwise, slipping the next stitch knitwise, returning the 2 stitches to the left needle, and knitting those 2 stitches together through the back loops.
Because the bandana increases in width, the stitch count changes with each row. The pattern specifically warns that you will not repeat the entire sequence between the asterisks as one fixed group. Instead, work as many stitches as you have before the last 2 stitches.
Abbreviations Used
- k โ knit.
- k2tog โ knit 2 stitches together.
- p โ purl.
- RS โ right side.
- sl โ slip stitch as if to purl with yarn in front.
- ssk โ slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip the next stitch knitwise, return the 2 stitches back to the left needle, knit those 2 stitches together through the back loops.
- WS โ wrong side.
- yo โ yarn over.
- *-* โ repeat the instructions in between the asterisks the number of times specified.
Building the Bottom of the Bandana
The bandana starts from its bottom point. This gives the project its triangular foundation and means the fabric gradually becomes wider as the knitting progresses.
Cast on 4 stitches.
The first section is called the set-up rows. These rows establish the early increases and introduce the basic edge treatment.
Set-Up Rows 1-5
Row 1 (WS): k2, sl2.
Row 2 (RS): k2, yo, sl2 (5sts).
Row 3: k2, p1, sl2.
Row 4: k2, yo, k1, yo, sl2 (7sts).
Row 5: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
At this point, the fabric has started expanding from the original 4-stitch cast-on. The repeated edge treatment remains visible at both sides.
Set-Up Rows 6-10
Row 6: k2, yo, k3, yo, sl2 (9sts).
Row 7: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 8: k2, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, sl2 (11sts).
Row 9: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 10: k2, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, yo, sl2 (13sts).
The setup rows are already introducing the same techniques that become important in the main lace pattern: yarnovers, k2tog, and ssk.
Set-Up Rows 11-15
Row 11: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 12: k2, yo, k3, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, sl2 (15sts).
Row 13: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 14: k2, yo, k to last 2 sts, yo, sl2 (17sts).
Row 15: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
After the setup section, the project is ready to move into the repeating lace pattern.
Beginning the Main Pattern
The main pattern consists of 8 rows. The right-side rows contain the increases and lace shaping, while the wrong-side rows use the familiar edge treatment.
Work the following sequence exactly as written:
Row 1 (RS): k2, yo, k1, *k2tog, yo, k6* to last 2 sts, yo, sl2 (2 sts increased).
Row 2 (WS): k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 3: k2, yo, k1, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3* to last 2 sts, yo, sl2 (2 sts increased).
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 5: k2, yo, k3, *k2tog, yo, k6* to last 2 sts, yo, sl2 (2 sts increased).
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 7: k2, yo, k to last 2 sts, yo, sl2 (2 sts increased).
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Repeat rows 1-8 8 more times or until you reach your desired length.
Keeping the Main Section Organized
The easiest way to understand the repeating section is to recognize the alternating rhythm. Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7 are right-side rows and contain the increases. Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8 are wrong-side rows and use the same basic purl-and-edge treatment.
Every increase row states that 2 sts are increased. As the triangle becomes wider, the number of stitches available for the lace section also changes.
The instruction to work the asterisked section to the last 2 stitches is therefore essential. You should not assume that the central section has a permanent stitch count throughout the project.
For easier progress tracking, consider each group of rows 1-8 as one complete pattern repeat. The pattern calls for 8 more repetitions, or you can stop when the desired length has been reached.
Visual Checkpoints While Knitting
A growing triangular shape should become apparent as the increases accumulate. The central fabric should also develop the open eyelet appearance associated with the Quatrefoil lace stitch.
The two edge stitches on each side should remain distinct from the central pattern. On the wrong side, the repeated k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2 instruction provides a useful checkpoint.
If a row looks unfamiliar, check the row number before changing anything. Since the lace sequence deliberately alternates between different combinations of yarnovers and decreases, changing the order can alter the design.
Completing the Triangle
Continue repeating rows 1-8 8 more times or until you reach your desired length.
The original finished length without ties is 49cm/19.25in., while the height is 24cm/9.5in. The pattern also notes that the size can be modified by adding or subtracting repeats.
When the bandana section is complete, break the yarn while leaving a 10cm (4โณ) long tail.
Set the bandana aside and leave the stitches on the needle as is. These live stitches will be incorporated into the i-cord edging shortly.
The First I-Cord Tie
The first tie is made separately from the bandana before it is joined to the live stitches. This section uses the pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs.
Cast on 3 stitches, do not turn.
Work the following repeat:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue until the i-cord tube measures approximately 30 cm.
Do not cut the yarn after reaching this length. The working yarn is needed for the joining process.
Joining the First Tie
Once the first i-cord has reached approximately 30 cm, transfer the 3 i-cord stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
Now knit the first two i-cord stitches and work ssk. The ssk knits the last i-cord stitch together with the first bandana stitch.
This is the first point where the separate tie becomes integrated into the main bandana. The same technique will continue along the edge.
After this, transfer the first 3 stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
Working the I-Cord Edging Across the Bandana
The remaining edging is built from a simple repeated sequence:
*k2, ssk, transfer 3 stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches*
Repeat the previous steps until you have 3 stitches left.
The purpose of the sequence is to keep the i-cord structure moving while progressively joining it to the live bandana stitches. The result is an integrated border rather than a separately sewn-on trim.
Work carefully through this section because each movement has a specific role. The k2 continues the i-cord, the ssk incorporates a bandana stitch, and transferring the 3 stitches prepares the i-cord for the next joining action.
Recognizing the End of the Edging
The pattern gives a precise stopping point rather than a fixed number of edging repeats. Continue the joining process until only 3 stitches remain.
These 3 stitches are important because they become the beginning of the second i-cord tie. Once they are reached, there is no need to attach a separate tie.
This is one of the most efficient aspects of the construction. The edge naturally transitions from the bandana into the final tie.
The Second I-Cord Tie
Work the second i-cord tie in the same way as the first one:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue knitting until the tube measures approximately 30 cm.
When the second tie reaches approximately 30 cm, bind off, cut the yarn, and weave in the tails.
This completes the basic construction of the Summer Veil Bandana.
Important Measurements to Remember
There are several measurements in the pattern that are worth keeping separate while working. The main bandana has a finished length without ties of 49cm/19.25in. and a height of 24cm/9.5in.
The gauge is 24 stitches by 32 rows over 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) in stockinette stitch after blocking.
The first i-cord is approximately 30 cm, and the second i-cord is also approximately 30 cm.
These numbers describe different parts of the project, so it is useful not to confuse the finished bandana dimensions with the length of either tie.
Beginner Tips for the Lace Section
If this is your first project involving eyelet lace, take a moment to identify the purpose of each technique. Yarnovers create the openings, while k2tog and ssk provide directional decreases within the lace design.
Do not assume that every right-side row follows the same sequence. Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7 each have their own instructions, even though they all increase the stitch count by 2.
Wrong-side rows are more consistent. Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8 all use k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2. This repeated structure can serve as a useful checkpoint between the more detailed right-side rows.
Beginner Tips for the I-Cord Section
The i-cord ties are short enough to be manageable, but the first transition into the edging deserves extra attention. Remember that the first tie is not finished off after reaching 30 cm. The yarn remains attached while the tie is joined to the live stitches.
Keep the 3 i-cord stitches easy to distinguish. The repeated transfer step is part of the construction and should be performed each time it is specified.
When the edging reaches the final 3 stitches, recognize that these are the starting stitches for the second tie. This helps make the transition from edging to tie easier to follow.
Common Checkpoints Before Finishing
- The bandana began with 4 stitches.
- The setup section contains Rows 1-15.
- Row 14 reaches 17 stitches.
- The main pattern consists of Rows 1-8.
- The main pattern is repeated 8 more times or until the desired length.
- The first and last 2 stitches form the i-cord edging.
- A 10cm (4โณ) yarn tail is left after the bandana section.
- The first i-cord starts with 3 stitches.
- The first tie measures approximately 30 cm.
- The first tie is not cut before joining.
- The edging continues until 3 stitches remain.
- The second tie is also approximately 30 cm.
- The second tie is bound off at the end.
- The yarn is cut and the tails are woven in.
Using the Pattern’s Built-In Size Flexibility
The pattern is written for one size, but the designer explains that the bandana can be modified by adding or subtracting repeats.
The main pattern repeat is 8 rows, so this is the natural repeating unit to consider when adjusting the length. The pattern itself does not require a new stitch design for this adjustment.
For the original version, use the stated finished measurements as the reference: 49cm/19.25in. without ties and 24cm/9.5in. in height.
Why Blocking Matters to the Stated Gauge
The gauge is specified after blocking: 24 stitches by 32 rows over 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) in stockinette stitch.
Because blocking is included in the original gauge statement, it is important to read the measurement in that context. The gauge is a reference for the knitted fabric after blocking, while the row-by-row instructions remain the exact construction guide for the bandana.
Finishing the Project Neatly
After the second i-cord reaches approximately 30 cm, bind off and cut the yarn. Use the tapestry needle to weave in the remaining tails.
The original construction does not call for a separate sewn attachment of the ties. Instead, both ties become part of the knitted structure through the i-cord process.
The finished result therefore has a continuous visual relationship between the narrow i-cord ties, the edging, and the lace triangle.
Complete Materials Checklist
- 1 ball of Drops Safran in marzipan, uni color 71
- 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles
- A pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
Complete Pattern Workflow
- Cast on 4 stitches.
- Work setup Rows 1-15.
- Begin the 8-row Quatrefoil eyelet lace pattern.
- Repeat rows 1-8 8 more times or until the desired length is reached.
- Break the yarn, leaving a 10cm (4โณ) tail.
- Leave the live bandana stitches on the needle.
- Cast on 3 stitches for the first i-cord.
- Work the i-cord to approximately 30 cm without turning.
- Do not cut the yarn.
- Transfer the 3 i-cord stitches while holding the live bandana stitches.
- Knit the first two i-cord stitches and work ssk with the first bandana stitch.
- Transfer the first 3 stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
- Repeat k2, ssk, and the transfer step until 3 stitches remain.
- Work the second i-cord until it measures approximately 30 cm.
- Bind off.
- Cut the yarn and weave in the tails.
Final Thoughts
The Summer Veil Bandana is a compact project with a carefully integrated construction. The triangular body grows from a four-stitch beginning, while the Quatrefoil eyelet lace introduces an airy texture through yarnovers and directional decreases.
The project is also a useful demonstration of how a simple edge treatment can become part of the overall construction. The first and last 2 stitches create the i-cord edging, keeping the borders neat and helping prevent curling. Later, the first i-cord tie is connected to the live stitches and transformed into the same type of edging.
Once the edging reaches 3 remaining stitches, those stitches naturally become the foundation for the second approximately 30 cm tie. The final bind-off and weaving in of the tails complete the accessory without requiring separate tie attachments.
For the original one-size version, the key specifications remain 49cm/19.25in. in length without ties, 24cm/9.5in. in height, and a gauge of 24 sts x 32 rows per 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) in stockinette stitch after blocking. The specified yarn is 1 ball of Drops Safran in marzipan, uni color 71, worked with 3mm (US 2.5) needles.
By following the setup section carefully, keeping track of the changing stitch count, and treating the i-cord joining sequence as its own construction stage, the complete bandana can be worked from beginning to end while preserving the original lace design and finished proportions.
Quick Reference
- Size: One size
- Length without ties: 49cm/19.25in.
- Height: 24cm/9.5in.
- Gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows per 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) in stockinette stitch after blocking
- Yarn: Drops Safran, marzipan, uni color 71
- Quantity: 1 ball
- Main needles: 3mm (US 2.5)
- DPNs: 3mm (US 2.5)
- Cast on: 4 stitches
- Setup: Rows 1-15
- Stitches at Row 14: 17 stitches
- Main lace sequence: Rows 1-8
- Main repeat: 8 more times or until desired length
- Bandana tail: 10cm (4โณ)
- First i-cord: Approximately 30 cm
- Second i-cord: Approximately 30 cm