The Spice Market Bandana is a compact knitting project that brings together several useful techniques in one wearable summer accessory. It is knitted from sport-weight cotton yarn and features a triangular shape, an open lace stitch pattern, integrated i-cord edges, and two long i-cord ties. Although the finished piece is small, its construction gives you an opportunity to practice increases, yarn overs, decreases, slipped stitches, live-stitch joining, and i-cord knitting.
The bandana is worked back and forth rather than in the round. Construction begins at the bottom edge with only five stitches. From there, the fabric expands through increases made on the right side of the work. The lace pattern is introduced as the triangle grows, creating an airy texture that suits the lightweight nature of the finished accessory.
A particularly useful feature of this design is the way the border is constructed. The first and last two stitches of every row form an i-cord-style edging. This gives the sides a finished appearance and helps prevent the fabric from curling. Instead of adding the ties separately after completing the triangle, the pattern transitions directly from the first i-cord tie into the edging and finally into the second tie.
The construction may look intricate when viewed as a finished accessory, but it can be understood as a sequence of manageable sections. Once the shaping and lace repeat become familiar, the main body follows a predictable rhythm. The finishing stage then uses the same three-stitch i-cord technique to create the ties.
At a Glance: The Finished Project
The Spice Market Bandana is designed in one size. The finished triangular section measures approximately 40 cm (15.75 in) in length without ties and 23 cm (9 in) in height.
The original pattern uses Drops Safran in red clay, uni color 59, with one ball. The yarn is sport-weight cotton, making it an appropriate choice for a light accessory. The main fabric is knitted using 3 mm (US 2.5) knitting needles, while the ties are worked with a pair of 3 mm (US 2.5) DPNs.
- Pattern: Spice Market Bandana
- Size: One size
- Finished length without ties: 40 cm / 15.75 in
- Finished height: 23 cm / 9 in
- Yarn: Drops Safran, red clay, uni color 59
- Quantity: 1 ball
- Main needles: 3 mm (US 2.5) knitting needles
- DPNs: 3 mm (US 2.5) for the ties
- Gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows per 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) in stockinette stitch after blocking
What Makes the Construction Interesting?
The most distinctive part of this knitting pattern is the way the body, border, and ties are connected. The triangular section does not simply end with a conventional bind-off. Instead, the live stitches are retained on the needle. A separate three-stitch i-cord is created for the first tie, and then that i-cord is worked together with the live bandana stitches using ssk.
This creates a continuous transition. The first tie becomes the beginning of the i-cord edging, the edging travels across the bandana, and the remaining three stitches become the starting point for the second tie.
Understanding this construction before you begin can make the final stage much easier. The live stitches at the end of the body are not unfinished in the usual sense. They are intentionally kept available for the edging process.
Materials for the Bandana
Yarn Choice
The specified yarn is Drops Safran in red clay, uni color 59, using one ball. The project is designed for sport-weight cotton yarn. Using the specified yarn gives you a direct reference for the stated gauge and finished measurements.
Cotton is also well suited to a summer accessory because the resulting fabric can remain lightweight while the lace pattern introduces additional openness. The original pattern does not require multiple colors or color changes, so the red clay yarn creates a simple single-color finish that allows the stitch pattern and construction details to remain visible.
Needles and Equipment
For the triangular body, use 3 mm (US 2.5) knitting needles. The two ties are worked using a pair of 3 mm (US 2.5) DPNs.
You will also need a tapestry needle, measuring tape, and scissors. The measuring tape is useful throughout the project rather than only at the end. It allows you to check the 23 cm height and 40 cm length of the main bandana section, as well as the approximately 30 cm length specified for each i-cord tie.
Gauge: Your Starting Reference
The stated gauge is 24 stitches by 32 rows over 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) in stockinette stitch after blocking.
It is important to note that the gauge specification refers to stockinette stitch after blocking, even though the actual bandana contains a lace pattern. Blocking is therefore part of the gauge reference supplied with the design.
If you are checking your gauge, use the stated needle size and yarn as your starting point and compare your blocked stockinette fabric with the specified 24 stitches and 32 rows over 10 x 10 cm. The finished lace bandana can then be assessed against the stated measurements.
Pattern Language and Essential Abbreviations
The pattern uses several standard knitting abbreviations. Knowing them before starting will make the written instructions easier to follow.
- k โ knit
- k3tog โ knit 3 stitches together: slip the next 2 stitches knitwise, both together rather than one at a time, to the right-hand needle; knit the next stitch; pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch.
- p โ purl
- RS โ right side
- sl โ slip stitch as if to purl with yarn in front
- ssk โ slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip the next stitch knitwise, return the 2 stitches to the left needle, and knit those 2 stitches together through the back loops.
- WS โ wrong side
- yo โ yarn over
- *-* โ repeat the instructions between the asterisks the specified number of times.
Before Starting: Understand the Two-Stage Shaping
The body begins with a short set-up section and then moves into the repeating lace pattern. Both sections use the same overall principle: increases occur on the right side, while the wrong-side rows are worked between the two i-cord edges.
The pattern specifically places the increases before and after the two edge stitches. These increases are made using M1R and M1L. The first increase is positioned after the first two i-cord stitches, and the second is positioned before the final two slipped stitches.
The instructions also emphasize that the increased stitches should not be tightened. Keeping those stitches relaxed helps maintain the intended shape of the growing triangle.
Set-Up: Building the First Rows
Start by casting on 5 stitches. The first row is worked on the wrong side and establishes the basic edge arrangement.
Set-up row (WS): k2, p1, sl2.
Then work the following rows:
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, k1, M1L, sl2 (7 sts).
Row 2: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 3: k2, M1R, yo, k3tog, yo, M1L, sl2 (9 sts).
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 5: k2, M1R, k1, yo, k3tog, yo, k1, M1L, sl2 (11 sts).
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 7: k2, M1R, k2, yo, k3tog, yo, k2, M1L, sl2 (13 sts).
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
After the set-up rows, you should have 13 stitches. This is an important checkpoint before moving into the repeating six-row section.
Why the Set-Up Matters
The set-up gradually introduces the lace structure rather than beginning immediately with the full repeat. Each right-side shaping row adds two stitches, while the wrong-side rows maintain the two-stitch edge treatment.
If your stitch count is incorrect at the end of the set-up, it is worth correcting the issue before beginning the main repeat. The first checkpoints are 7 stitches after Row 1, 9 stitches after Row 3, 11 stitches after Row 5, and 13 stitches after Row 7.
The Main Lace Section
Once the set-up is complete, the main body is worked through a six-row repeat. The pattern instructs you to repeat rows 1โ6 9 more times or until you reach your desired length.
The right-side rows are where the lace pattern and shaping work together. The wrong-side rows are simpler, using the familiar k2, purl to the last two stitches, and sl2 sequence.
Repeat Row 1
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, *yo, k3tog, yo, k3* to last 5 sts, yo, k3tog, yo, M1L, sl2 (2 sts increased).
This row contains the repeating lace motif between the outer shaping points. The M1R and M1L create the additional two stitches needed to widen the triangle.
Repeat Row 2
Row 2 (WS): k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
This is the first of the three wrong-side rows in the six-row repeat. The edge treatment remains unchanged.
Repeat Row 3
Row 3: k2, M1R, k1, *yo, k3tog, yo, k3* to last 6 sts, yo, k3tog, yo, k1, M1L, sl2 (2 sts increased).
The placement of the extra knit stitch around the central lace sequence changes compared with Row 1. Follow the written stitch counts and stopping points carefully rather than attempting to reproduce the previous row from memory.
Repeat Row 4
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Repeat Row 5
Row 5: k2, M1R, k2, *yo, k3tog, yo, k3* to last 7 sts, yo, k3tog, yo, k2, M1L, sl2 (2 sts increased).
Repeat Row 6
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
After Row 6, begin the sequence again. Continue the six-row repeat 9 more times or until the bandana reaches your desired length.
Keeping Track of the Repeat
The six-row repeat becomes easier to manage if you keep a clear record of which row you are working. Rows 1, 3, and 5 are the shaping rows, and each states that two stitches are increased. Rows 2, 4, and 6 are the wrong-side rows worked as k2, p to the last 2 stitches, sl2.
This creates a simple visual and numerical rhythm. When checking your work, ask two questions after every shaping row: did I make both increases, and does the lace sequence match the written instructions?
The lace motif itself includes yarn overs and k3tog decreases. These operations create the openwork design. The M1R and M1L increases are separate from that lace balance and are responsible for the overall growth of the triangle.
A Note About Alternative Increases
The pattern provides an optional simplification: if you want to simplify the pattern, you can replace M1L and M1R with yarn overs.
This note is useful for knitters who find make-one increases less familiar. However, the original pattern’s stated increase method is M1R and M1L, so use the specified technique if you want to reproduce the instructions exactly.
Completing the Main Triangle
Once the repeated section is complete, break the yarn and leave a 10 cm (4 in) tail. Do not bind off the stitches.
Instead, set the bandana aside with the live stitches remaining on the needle. This is a critical construction step because those stitches will later be incorporated into the i-cord edging.
At this point, it can be tempting to finish the edge immediately, but the design intentionally uses the live stitches as part of the joining process. Keeping them on the needle preserves the structure needed for the next stage.
Making the First 30 cm I-Cord
Move to the 3 mm (US 2.5) DPNs. Cast on 3 stitches and do not turn.
Work the following sequence:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue until the i-cord tube measures approximately 30 cm. Do not cut the yarn.
The instruction not to turn is an important part of standard i-cord construction. The three stitches are repeatedly moved to the other side of the needle and knitted again, allowing the tube to form as you work.
Connecting the Tie to the Bandana
Once the first tie reaches approximately 30 cm, transfer the three i-cord stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
Now knit the first two i-cord stitches. Then work ssk, knitting the final i-cord stitch together with the first bandana stitch.
This is the key joining action. The ssk combines the i-cord with one live stitch from the bandana. The resulting edge begins the continuous i-cord border.
Transfer the first three stitches to the needle while continuing to hold the live bandana stitches.
Then repeat:
*k2, ssk, transfer 3 stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches*
Continue this process until you have 3 stitches left.
Why the Edging Is Worked This Way
The repeated k2 and ssk sequence allows the three-stitch i-cord to travel along the bandana edge while consuming the live stitches one at a time. Instead of creating a separate border and sewing it on later, the border is knitted directly into the existing fabric.
This gives the finished bandana a continuous appearance. It also means that the final three stitches naturally remain available for the second tie.
The Second I-Cord Tie
When only three stitches remain, begin the second tie. The instructions are the same as for the first i-cord:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue until the tube measures approximately 30 cm.
Unlike the first tie, this time the i-cord is the final section of the project. Once it reaches approximately 30 cm, bind off, cut the yarn, and weave in the tails.
Construction Checkpoints
Rather than trying to remember the entire pattern at once, divide the project into checkpoints.
Checkpoint One: Five Stitches
The project begins with a five-stitch cast-on. The set-up row establishes the basic center and edge structure.
Checkpoint Two: Thirteen Stitches
After Set-up Rows 1โ8, the stitch count reaches 13 stitches. This confirms that the initial increase sequence has been completed correctly.
Checkpoint Three: Six-Row Repeat
The main body is worked using rows 1โ6. Right-side rows 1, 3, and 5 each increase the stitch count by two.
Checkpoint Four: Live Stitches
After reaching the desired length, break the yarn with a 10 cm (4 in) tail but leave the bandana stitches live on the needle.
Checkpoint Five: First Tie
Work the first three-stitch i-cord to approximately 30 cm and keep the yarn attached.
Checkpoint Six: Continuous Edge
Use k2, ssk, and the transfer of three stitches to work the i-cord across the bandana until three stitches remain.
Checkpoint Seven: Second Tie
Continue the three-stitch i-cord to approximately 30 cm, then bind off and weave in the tails.
Troubleshooting the Main Body
The Triangle Is Not Getting Wider
Check the two make-one increases on the right-side shaping rows. The pattern places M1R and M1L around the two-stitch i-cord edge. Each of these rows should increase the stitch count by two.
The Edge Looks Tight
The pattern specifically says not to tighten the edge stitches or the increased stitches. Pay particular attention to the first two knitted stitches, the final two slipped stitches, and the M1R and M1L stitches.
The Lace Pattern Looks Different From the Previous Repeat
Rows 1, 3, and 5 are not identical. Their placement of k1 or k2 around the repeated lace section changes as the triangle expands. Follow each row as written rather than assuming all three shaping rows have the same center sequence.
The Wrong-Side Rows Feel Too Simple
That is expected. Rows 2, 4, and 6 are worked as k2, p to the last 2 stitches, sl2. Their purpose is to maintain the reverse-side structure between the lace shaping rows.
I Bound Off the Main Triangle Too Early
The original construction does not call for binding off the triangular section at this stage. The instructions say to break the yarn while leaving a 10 cm (4 in) tail and set the bandana aside with the stitches still on the needle.
Tips for Working the I-Cord Smoothly
The ties are made with only three stitches, so the technique is simple but can feel different from ordinary flat knitting. After knitting the three stitches, do not turn the work. Instead, slip the three stitches to the right side of the needle and knit them again.
Measure the tube periodically rather than relying entirely on counting. The target given in the pattern is approximately 30 cm for each tie.
During the first tie, do not cut the yarn after reaching 30 cm because the same working yarn is needed to connect the tie to the bandana. Only the second tie is bound off and finished after it reaches approximately 30 cm.
Understanding the Finished Shape
The final bandana has a triangular central section with an i-cord border and two matching ties. The triangular body measures approximately 40 cm (15.75 in) in length without ties and 23 cm (9 in) in height.
The lace stitch gives the body a decorative openwork effect, while the i-cord edging creates a more structured outline. The two ties extend from opposite sides and provide the means to secure or style the accessory.
Because the pattern is built through repeated increases, the central triangle can be adjusted by adding or subtracting repeats. The original instructions specifically state that you can repeat rows 1โ6 nine more times or continue until you reach your desired length.
Blocking and Final Measurements
The pattern’s gauge is specified after blocking, so blocking should be considered when evaluating the final fabric. The finished measurements are approximately 40 cm (15.75 in) in length without ties and 23 cm (9 in) in height.
When measuring, use a tape measure and check the central triangular section separately from the ties. The ties themselves are each worked to approximately 30 cm.
The lace fabric may look somewhat different before and after blocking. The stated gauge and measurements are provided as the finished reference, so avoid judging the final dimensions solely from the unblocked fabric.
Quick Reference for the Entire Construction
- Cast on 5 stitches.
- Work the WS set-up row.
- Complete Set-up Rows 1โ8, reaching 13 stitches after Row 7.
- Work the six-row pattern repeat.
- Repeat rows 1โ6 9 more times or until you reach your desired length.
- Break the yarn, leaving a 10 cm (4 in) tail.
- Leave the live bandana stitches on the needle.
- Cast on 3 stitches on 3 mm (US 2.5) DPNs for the first tie.
- Work the three-stitch i-cord to approximately 30 cm.
- Transfer the i-cord stitches while holding the live bandana stitches.
- Work k2, ssk, and transfer 3 stitches repeatedly across the edge.
- Continue until 3 stitches remain.
- Work the second three-stitch i-cord to approximately 30 cm.
- Bind off, cut the yarn, and weave in the tails.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Spice Market Bandana knitted flat?
Yes. The bandana is knitted back and forth. The triangular body is built from the bottom edge upward with increases on the right side.
How many stitches do you cast on?
The pattern begins with a cast-on of 5 stitches.
What is the stitch count after the set-up section?
After Row 7, the stitch count is 13 stitches. Row 8 is then worked as k2, p to the last 2 stitches, sl2.
How many stitches are increased on each shaping row?
Each specified right-side pattern row increases the stitch count by 2 stitches through M1R and M1L.
How many times is the lace repeat worked?
The instructions say to repeat rows 1โ6 9 more times or until you reach your desired length.
How long should the ties be?
Each i-cord tie is worked until the tube measures approximately 30 cm.
Do I need to cut the yarn after making the first tie?
No. The instructions specifically say not to cut the yarn after the first i-cord reaches approximately 30 cm because that tie is immediately connected to the live bandana stitches.
What happens to the final three stitches of the edging?
The final three stitches become the beginning of the second i-cord tie.
Can the bandana size be adjusted?
Yes. The pattern notes that you can modify the size by adding or subtracting repeats. The main instructions specify repeating rows 1โ6 9 more times or working until you reach your desired length.
Final Finishing Checklist
- Confirm the main bandana has reached the desired length.
- Leave the triangular section live on the needle when the body is finished.
- Leave a 10 cm (4 in) yarn tail when breaking the yarn.
- Work the first three-stitch i-cord to approximately 30 cm.
- Keep the first tie attached to the working yarn.
- Join the i-cord to the live bandana stitches using the stated k2 and ssk sequence.
- Continue the edging until only 3 stitches remain.
- Work the second three-stitch i-cord to approximately 30 cm.
- Bind off the second tie.
- Cut the yarn and weave in the tails.
- Check the finished measurements after blocking.
Final Thoughts on the Spice Market Bandana
The Spice Market Bandana is a thoughtful example of compact knitting construction. The project starts with just five stitches and gradually develops into a larger triangular lace fabric through a consistent series of increases. The two-stitch edge treatment is carried throughout the body, giving the bandana a clean outline while also helping to control curling.
The finishing method is equally distinctive. Instead of sewing separate ties onto a completed triangle, the first i-cord is connected directly to the live stitches and becomes the edging. The edging then continues across the remaining stitches until the final three stitches transition naturally into the second tie.
For the most consistent result, pay particular attention to the increase points, keep the edge stitches relaxed, and use the stitch counts as checkpoints. The set-up ends at 13 stitches, each main right-side shaping row increases by two stitches, and the three-stitch i-cord remains the same throughout both ties and the edging.
With its sport-weight cotton yarn, lace texture, triangular construction, and adjustable ties, the finished accessory is well suited to summer styling. The pattern also offers useful practice with techniques that can be applied to many other knitting projects, including make-one increases, yarn overs, k3tog, ssk, slipped edge stitches, and three-stitch i-cords.
Once the final tie has been bound off and the yarn tails woven in, the bandana is ready for its final measurement and blocking. The completed result should retain the lightweight character of the cotton yarn while showcasing the open lace motif and neat continuous i-cord finish.