The Flower Bed Bandana is a charming one-size knitting project that combines a triangular silhouette with repeated eyelet details and a carefully constructed i-cord border. It is a relatively small project, but it offers an excellent opportunity to practice shaping, lace stitches, yarn overs, paired decreases, i-cord knitting, and working directly from live stitches.
The main bandana is knitted flat, beginning with just 5 stitches and gradually increasing across the right-side rows. The eyelet design is introduced during the shaping process rather than added afterward. Once the main fabric reaches the desired length, the live stitches remain on the needle while the first i-cord tie is attached and transformed into the bandana’s integrated edging.
This construction is one of the most interesting aspects of the pattern. The project does not simply consist of a knitted triangle followed by separately sewn-on ties. Instead, the first i-cord becomes part of the finished edge, and the second i-cord continues from the opposite end.
At a Glance: Everything You Need Before Casting On
Gathering the correct materials before starting makes the project much easier to manage. The original pattern specifies one size and uses a single ball of Drops Safran in lavender, uni color 05.
- Size: One size
- Finished length without ties: 43cm/17in
- Finished height: 22cm/8.75in
- Gauge: 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) = 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette stitch after blocking
- Yarn: Drops Safran in the color lavender (uni color 05), 1 ball
- Needles: 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles
- Tie needles: A pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs
- Notions: Tapestry needle, measuring tape, and scissors
The measuring tape is particularly useful during the i-cord stages because each tie is knitted until it measures approximately 30 cm. The tapestry needle will be used for weaving in the yarn tails at the end.
The Three Main Elements of the Bandana
Before working through the rows, it helps to understand the three major components of the project.
- The triangular bandana body: This grows from 5 stitches through paired increases on the right-side rows.
- The eyelet fabric: Decorative openwork is created using the specified five-stitch eyelet pattern.
- The i-cord framework: The first tie becomes the integrated edging, while the second tie completes the opposite side.
These three elements are worked in a specific order. The body must remain on the needle at the end because the live stitches are required when constructing the i-cord edging.
Important Pattern Notes Before You Start
There are two details that are particularly important throughout the bandana: the treatment of the edge stitches and the placement of the increases.
The I-Cord Edge
The i-cord edging is created by knitting the first 2 stitches of every row and slipping the last 2 stitches of every row with yarn in front.
The pattern specifically says not to tighten the edge stitches. Keeping them relaxed helps the edge retain the intended flexibility and shape.
The Increases
Two stitches are increased at the beginning and at the end of each right-side row using M1R or M1L before and after the 2 i-cord edge stitches. Again, the pattern instructs you not to tighten the increased stitches.
If you want to simplify the pattern, M1L and M1R may be replaced with yarn overs.
Essential Abbreviations
The following abbreviations are used throughout the instructions:
- k โ knit.
- k2tog โ knit 2 stitches together.
- M1L โ make 1 left.
- M1R โ make 1 right.
- p โ purl.
- RS โ right side.
- sl โ slip stitch as if to purl with yarn in front.
- ssk โ slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip the next stitch knitwise, return the 2 stitches back to the left needle, knit those 2 stitches together through the back loops.
- WS โ wrong side.
- yo โ yarn over.
- *-* โ repeat the instructions in between the asterisks the number of times specified.
The Lace Motif: Your Five-Stitch Eyelet Pattern
The decorative openings are created using one defined eyelet sequence:
Eyelet pattern: k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk.
This sequence should be worked whenever the pattern specifically directs you to use the eyelet pattern. The yarn overs create openings in the knitted fabric, while the two decreases balance the stitch structure.
Because the eyelet sequence is repeated at different points across the bandana, it is useful to become familiar with the order before starting the main pattern section. However, always follow the exact placement given in each row.
Stage One: Creating the Foundation
Begin by casting on 5 stitches.
Then work the following set-up row:
Set-up row (WS): k2, p1, sl2.
This first row establishes the central stitch area and the two-stitch edge treatment that will continue through the bandana.
Stage Two: Growing the First Section
The first twelve rows gradually increase the number of stitches while introducing the first eyelet motifs.
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, k1, M1L, sl2 (7sts).
Row 2: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 3: k2, M1R, k3, M1L, sl2 (9sts).
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 5: k2, M1R, eyelet pattern, M1L, sl2 (11sts).
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 7: k2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, sl2 (13sts).
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 9: k2, M1R, k2, eyelet pattern, k2, M1L, sl2 (15sts).
Row 10: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Row 11: k2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, sl2 (17sts).
Row 12: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
These rows provide an excellent opportunity to establish a consistent rhythm. The even-numbered wrong-side rows are worked with the same basic edge-and-purl structure, while the right-side rows introduce shaping and, where indicated, eyelets.
Early Stitch-Count Check
The stitch counts shown in the pattern should be used as checkpoints:
- Row 1: 7sts
- Row 3: 9sts
- Row 5: 11sts
- Row 7: 13sts
- Row 9: 15sts
- Row 11: 17sts
Each increase row adds 2 stitches. If one of these checkpoints does not match, review the M1R and M1L instructions on that row before moving further into the project.
Stage Three: Entering the Main Pattern
After Row 12, begin the main pattern rows. This section consists of an eight-row repeat and forms most of the decorative body of the bandana.
Work the following rows exactly as written.
Pattern Row 1
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1R, *eyelet pattern, k3* until 5sts left, eyelet pattern, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
This is one of the principal lace rows. The eyelet pattern is repeated with k3 sections between the motifs, while the two increases continue to expand the bandana.
Pattern Row 2
Row 2 (WS): k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
This wrong-side row returns across the main fabric in purl.
Pattern Row 3
Row 3: k2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
This is a plain increase row without an eyelet repeat.
Pattern Row 4
Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Pattern Row 5
Row 5: k2, M1R, k2, *eyelet pattern, k3* until 7sts left, eyelet pattern, k2, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
The placement of the lace sequence changes here, with k2 before the repeated section and another k2 near the end.
Pattern Row 6
Row 6: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Pattern Row 7
Row 7: k2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, sl2 (2sts increased).
Pattern Row 8
Row 8: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Repeat Rows 1โ8 7 more times or until you reach your desired length.
Keeping the Eight-Row Repeat Organized
One simple way to stay oriented is to identify the four right-side and four wrong-side rows as a complete unit. Rows 1 and 5 are the decorative eyelet rows, while Rows 3 and 7 are plain increase rows. Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8 all use the same wrong-side instruction.
This pattern structure means that the central fabric alternates between decorative shaping and simpler shaping. You do not need to invent a new sequence between repeats. Simply return to Row 1 after Row 8 and begin the next eight-row cycle.
When counting repeats, remember that the instructions say to repeat Rows 1โ8 7 more times or until you reach your desired length. The phrase โor until you reach your desired lengthโ is part of the original pattern instruction and should not be replaced with an invented row count.
What to Do When the Main Fabric Is Finished
After reaching your desired length, break the yarn and leave a 10cm (4โณ) long tail.
Set the bandana aside while leaving the stitches on the needle as is.
This is one of the most important finishing instructions in the entire project. Do not bind off the bandana stitches at this stage because the first i-cord edging will be connected directly to these live stitches.
Stage Four: Knitting the First Tie
Now prepare the first i-cord tie.
Cast on 3 stitches and do not turn.
Work the following sequence:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue until the i-cord tube measures approximately 30 cm. Do not cut the yarn.
The instruction not to turn is fundamental to i-cord construction. Instead of knitting back and forth, the three stitches are slid to the right side of the needle before being knitted again.
Stage Five: Attaching the Tie to the Live Edge
Transfer the 3 i-cord stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
Then knit the first two i-cord stitches. Work an ssk by knitting the last i-cord stitch together with the first bandana stitch.
This creates the first connection between the tie and the bandana.
Building the Integrated I-Cord Edging
Once the first connection has been made, transfer the first 3 stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
Then repeat:
*k2, ssk, transfer 3 stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches*
Continue repeating these steps until you have 3 stitches left.
The important concept here is that the i-cord remains a three-stitch structure while the ssk joins its final stitch to the next live bandana stitch. This gradually consumes the live bandana edge and produces a continuous border.
The stitch transfer is repeated throughout this stage, so it is worth slowing down and checking the position of the three i-cord stitches before continuing each section.
Stage Six: Completing the Second Tie
When the edging is complete and you have 3 stitches left, work the second i-cord tie in the same way as the first.
Use the same repeated movement:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue until the tube measures approximately 30 cm.
Unlike the first tie, the second tie is finished at this point by binding off. Cut the yarn and weave in the tails.
Finishing and Blocking Considerations
The stated gauge is measured in stockinette stitch after blocking, so the final fabric should be considered in its blocked state when evaluating the dimensions.
The target finished measurements are:
- Length without ties: 43cm/17in
- Height: 22cm/8.75in
Blocking can also help the eyelet fabric display more clearly. However, the technical construction of the edge should already be correct before blocking. Blocking should not be used as a substitute for correcting missed increases, missing yarn overs, or incorrect decreases.
Troubleshooting the Most Important Stages
If the Bandana Is Not Increasing Correctly
Check the right-side increase rows. The pattern calls for two stitches to be increased on each right-side increase row. Verify that both M1R and M1L have been worked in the appropriate positions.
If an Eyelet Is Missing
Return to the relevant eyelet row and compare your work against the five-stitch sequence:
k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk.
Do not add an extra stitch simply to make the visual pattern appear correct. The decreases and yarn overs work together as a defined sequence.
If the Edge Is Too Tight
The pattern specifically instructs you not to tighten the edge stitches. The first 2 stitches should be knitted and the last 2 stitches slipped with yarn in front without pulling the edge excessively.
If the I-Cord Does Not Look Like a Tube
Check that you are not turning the work. The i-cord instructions require you to slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle and then knit 3. This repeated movement allows the narrow tube to form.
If You Have Finished the Body but Are Ready to Bind Off
Stop before binding off. The pattern instructs you to break the yarn leaving a 10cm (4โณ) tail and leave the stitches on the needle. These live stitches are required for the i-cord edging.
Technique Notes for a Neater Result
Do Not Over-Tighten the Increases
The M1R and M1L increases should remain relaxed. Pulling these stitches tightly can make the beginning and end of the growing fabric look compressed.
Keep the Lace Sequence Consistent
When you reach a row containing multiple eyelet repeats, focus on the exact sequence rather than knitting from memory. The pattern uses both eyelet placement and plain knitted sections to create its overall arrangement.
Use the Stitch Counts as Safety Checks
The early rows provide explicit stitch counts, making them particularly useful for confirming that the project is developing correctly. The counts progress from 7 to 17 stitches through the first six increase rows.
Measure Rather Than Guess
The i-cord ties are specified as approximately 30 cm. Use a measuring tape to check their length, especially if your knitting tension changes during the project.
Quick Reference: Main Construction
- Cast on 5 stitches.
- Work the set-up row on the WS.
- Complete Rows 1โ12.
- Check the specified stitch counts.
- Begin the eight-row main pattern repeat.
- Repeat Rows 1โ8 7 more times or until you reach your desired length.
- Break the yarn with a 10cm (4โณ) tail.
- Leave the bandana stitches live on the needle.
- Cast on 3 stitches for the first i-cord.
- Work the i-cord to approximately 30 cm.
- Attach the i-cord to the live bandana stitches using the specified ssk construction.
- Continue the integrated edging until 3 stitches remain.
- Work the second i-cord to approximately 30 cm.
- Bind off, cut the yarn, and weave in the tails.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Flower Bed Bandana suitable for one size?
Yes. The pattern is written as one size, with finished measurements of 43cm/17in in length without ties and 22cm/8.75in in height.
What color yarn is used?
The specified yarn is Drops Safran in lavender, uni color 05. The pattern calls for 1 ball.
What needle size is required?
The bandana is worked using 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles. A pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs is used for the ties.
What is the gauge?
The gauge is 24 stitches by 32 rows in stockinette stitch over 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) after blocking.
How many stitches are cast on?
The bandana begins with a cast-on of 5 stitches.
How many stitches are increased on the main increase rows?
Two stitches are increased on each specified right-side increase row.
How is the eyelet pattern made?
The eyelet pattern is worked as k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk.
How are the edges made?
The i-cord edging is created by knitting the first 2 stitches of every row and slipping the last 2 stitches of every row with yarn in front. The later edging is created by joining a three-stitch i-cord to the live bandana stitches using the specified ssk technique.
How long should each tie be?
Each i-cord tie is worked until the tube measures approximately 30 cm.
Understanding the Finished Shape
The final bandana has a compact triangular construction with a decorative eyelet surface. The increases create the widening shape, while the i-cord treatment frames the edges.
The finished length without ties is 43cm/17in and the height is 22cm/8.75in. The two approximately 30 cm ties extend from the sides and provide the finishing structure needed to wear the bandana.
The finished look depends on the relationship between the openwork center and the narrow knitted borders. For this reason, the edge tension deserves just as much attention as the lace stitches themselves.
Why the Pattern Is a Useful Technique Builder
Although the finished item is small, the Flower Bed Bandana brings together several foundational knitting skills. The early shaping teaches you to track increases while maintaining edge stitches. The eyelet pattern introduces yarn overs and paired decreases. The repeated wrong-side rows provide a stable return structure, while the i-cord stages teach a different approach to creating narrow tubular fabric.
The live-stitch edging is another valuable technique. Instead of finishing one component and attaching another later, the pattern creates a direct transition from the live bandana edge into the i-cord border. This makes the construction feel continuous and gives the finished piece a polished outline.
For knitters who are comfortable with basic knit and purl stitches but want to explore lace and shaping, the project offers a contained way to practice these techniques without committing to a large garment or shawl.
Final Finishing Checklist
- Confirm that the bandana has been worked to the intended length.
- Check that the finished dimensions are approximately 43cm/17in without ties and 22cm/8.75in high.
- Ensure the first tie measures approximately 30 cm.
- Verify that the i-cord edging has been worked across the live bandana stitches.
- Check that the second tie measures approximately 30 cm.
- Bind off the second tie.
- Cut the yarn.
- Weave in the tails.
- Block according to the intended finished fabric and evaluate the gauge after blocking.
The Finished Flower Bed Bandana
Once the final ends are woven in and the fabric has been finished, the Flower Bed Bandana reveals the full effect of its construction. The eyelet motifs create a delicate openwork texture, while the paired increases give the fabric its characteristic triangular form.
The integrated i-cord edging provides a clean border and transitions naturally into the two ties. Because the ties are made using the same 3mm (US 2.5) needle size and the same i-cord technique, they visually complement the narrow edge surrounding the bandana.
The key to following this pattern successfully is consistency. Keep the two i-cord edge stitches under control on every row, make both specified increases on the right-side increase rows, follow the eyelet sequence exactly, and use the live stitches correctly when beginning the edging.
Remember that the technical details are fixed: one size, Drops Safran in lavender uni color 05, 1 ball, 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles, a pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs for the ties, and a gauge of 24 sts x 32 rows over 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) in stockinette stitch after blocking.
From the initial 5-stitch cast-on to the final approximately 30 cm i-cord, every stage contributes to the finished shape. The result is a small but technique-rich knitting project that combines lace texture, shaping, and an elegant integrated border in a single accessory.