Love Puff Bandana Crochet Pattern: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide for S, M and L

The Love Puff Bandana is a delicate crochet head accessory built around a pretty puff-stitch texture, open chain spaces, a decorative shell border, and long ties that allow the finished piece to be secured comfortably. This version of the tutorial is organized as a construction-focused guide, so you can see how the triangular fabric grows, how the border follows the edges, and how the ties are worked for each size.

The original pattern is by Silent Bloom Crochet and is dated 2026. The source states that finished items may be sold when the designer is credited, while the pattern itself and its photographs should not be copied, shared, or reposted. The technical instructions below retain the original US crochet terminology, stitch counts, row numbers, repeats, and size stopping points. fileciteturn0file0

What Makes the Love Puff Bandana Special?

This project has a very recognizable triangular silhouette. Instead of beginning with a wide foundation chain and reducing toward the center, the main fabric grows outward from the first puff-stitch cluster. Alternating puff-stitch rows and openwork rows create the lace-like structure. As the row count increases, each odd row adds another repeat and each even row adds another repeat, producing the widening triangle.

The texture comes from the HDC3PUFF stitch. Each puff group is separated by a chain-3 space, while the following row uses double crochet, single crochet, and chain spaces to form the open framework. The result is a fabric that looks decorative without requiring a large collection of different stitches.

Another useful feature is the sizing system. The pattern gives three finished width targets: 36 cm or 14 inches for Size S, 43 cm or 17 inches for Size M, and 50 cm or 20 inches for Size L. The pattern also explains how to measure the wearer before choosing the stopping row, which makes the project easier to personalize without changing the stitch architecture.

Materials and Crochet Abbreviations

• Yarn: One 50 g skein of weight 1 cotton yarn. The reference yarn used by the designer was 170 m or 186 yds per 50 g.
• Hook: 3.5 mm or E-4.
• Terms: US crochet terms.

Abbreviations

• YO: yarn over
• ST: stitch
• CH: chain
• CH-3 SP: chain-3 space
• SL ST: slip stitch
• SC: single crochet
• DC: double crochet
• HDC3PUFF: half double crochet 3 puff stitch

For the HDC3PUFF, work (YO, insert hook, YO, pull up a loop) ×3 into the same stitch, YO, pull through 6 loops, YO, pull through both loops. Keeping this sequence consistent is especially important because the puff clusters create the main decorative motif of the bandana.

Gauge, Measurement and Choosing Your Size

The pattern notes that gauge is not extremely important and does not have to be matched exactly. It is provided if you want to follow the stated finished sizes. The gauge is 15.5 cm or 5.6 inches wide for 19 stitches (row 11) × 9.4 cm or 3.7 inches tall for 11 rows.

For sizing, measure from one earlobe, up over the head to the place where you want the flat edge of the bandana to sit, and down to the other earlobe. This measurement is the desired width of the bandana excluding the strings.

• Size S: 27 rows for a width of 36 cm or 14 inches.
• Size M: 31 rows for a width of 43 cm or 17 inches.
• Size L: 35 rows for a width of 50 cm or 20 inches.

The stopping rows are deliberately odd-numbered rows because the main body needs to finish on a puff-stitch row before the shell border begins. This is an important checkpoint to remember while crocheting.

Before You Begin: Four Pattern Rules to Keep Visible

The source gives several notes that prevent common mistakes. First, CH 3 at the beginning of a row does count as a stitch on top of the DC in the previous row, so the HDC3PUFF is placed in the next DC. CH 1 does not count as a stitch. CH 3 between puff stitches does not count as a stitch. CH 2 between SC and DC does not count as a stitch.

The odd rows beginning with Row 3 increase by one additional repeat for every odd row. The even rows beginning with Row 4 also increase by one additional repeat for every even row. Because of this structure, the pattern can be adjusted by adding or subtracting rows in multiples of 2, provided that the final number of rows is odd.

The number of shells in the finished border corresponds to the number of main-body rows. The designer also explains that the bottom shell was changed from 5 DC to 7 DC to prevent the border from curling. Some demonstration pictures therefore show the older 5-DC version, but the written instruction calls for 7 DC at the bottom.

Build the Triangular Main Fabric

Start with the first puff-stitch cluster at the point of the bandana. The early rows are intentionally small, so this is the ideal stage to learn the rhythm before the repeats become longer.

Row 1

CH 1+3, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF, DC) all into the 1st CH. Turn. (4)

Row 2

CH 3+1, DC in the DC from the previous row, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in the 3rd CH from the previous row. Turn. (5)

Row 3

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in the DC, DC in the SC]×1, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in the DC, DC in the 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (7)

Row 4

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×1, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (7)

Row 5

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×2, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (10)

Row 6

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×2, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (9)

Rows 7 Through 35: The Repeat Structure

From this point, the pattern follows a highly regular alternation. Odd-numbered rows are puff-stitch rows, and even-numbered rows are openwork rows. Rather than changing the stitch architecture, the pattern increases the number of repeats as the triangle widens.

Row 7

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×3, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (13)

Row 8

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×3, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (11)

Row 9

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×4, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (16)

Row 10

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×4, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (13)

Row 11

CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×4, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (19)

Row 12

CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×4, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (15)

At Row 11, the stated gauge reference can also be checked if you want to compare your tension with the source. Do not feel that you must force your stitches to match it, because the designer specifically notes that the gauge is not super important.

Rows 13–18

Row 13: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×5, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (22)

Row 14: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×5, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (17)

Row 15: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×6, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (25)

Row 16: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×6, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (19)

Row 17: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×7, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (28)

Row 18: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×7, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (21)

Rows 19–24

Row 19: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×8, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (31)

Row 20: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×8, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (23)

Row 21: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×9, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (34)

Row 22: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×9, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (25)

Row 23: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×10, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (37)

Row 24: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×10, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (27)

Rows 25–31: Size Checkpoints

Row 25: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×11, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (40)

Row 26: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×11, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (29)

Row 27: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×12, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Stop here for size S. Turn. (43)

Row 28: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×12, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (31)

Row 29: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×13, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (46)

Row 30: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×13, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (33)

Row 31: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×14, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Stop here for size M. Turn. (49)

Rows 32–35: Completing Size L

Row 32: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×14, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (35)

Row 33: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×15, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (52)

Row 34: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×15, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (37)

Row 35: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×16, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Stop here for size L. (55)

Once you finish your selected size, check that you have ended on an odd-numbered puff-stitch row. This is the required foundation for the shell border. Size S ends at Row 27, Size M at Row 31, and Size L at Row 35.

Understanding the Shell Border

The shell border is worked after rotating the bandana 135° so you can crochet along the side. The source specifically instructs you to make sure the main section contains an odd number of rows before starting the border. The border alternates slip stitches and groups of 5 DC along the side, creating the scalloped edge.

The bottom shell is different: it uses 7 DC. This is intentional and should not be changed back to 5 DC when following the written pattern. The designer changed the bottom shell from 5 DC to 7 DC to prevent the border from curling. The photographs and demonstration video may show the earlier 5-DC version, which explains why the visual examples can look slightly different from the written instruction.

Size S Shell Border

Rotate the bandana 135° to start crocheting along the side. Work DC 5 in the same ST you ended the puff stitch row on (3rd CH in the top of row 26), then [SL ST into the next row (top of the DC), DC 5 in the row after that (3rd CH)]*12 (repeats), and SL ST into the top of row 1 (top of the DC).

For the bottom, work DC 7 into the 1st CH of the bandana. Rotate it 100° and SL ST into the first row on the other side. Continue up the other side in the same way with DC 5 and SL ST alternating every other row. You should end up with 27 shells in total. Do not cut the yarn.

Size M Shell Border

Work DC 5 in the same ST you ended the puff stitch row on (3rd CH in the top of row 30), then [SL ST into the next row (top of the DC), DC 5 in the row after that (3rd CH)]*14 (repeats), followed by SL ST into the top of row 1 (top of the DC).

For the bottom, work DC 7 into the 1st CH of the bandana. Rotate it 100° and SL ST into the first row on the other side. Continue upward with DC 5 and SL ST alternating every other row. The total is 31 shells. Do not cut the yarn.

Size L Shell Border

Work DC 5 in the same ST you ended the puff stitch row on (3rd CH in the top of row 34), then [SL ST into the next row (top of the DC), DC 5 in the row after that (3rd CH)]*16 (repeats), followed by SL ST into the top of row 1 (top of the DC).

For the bottom, work DC 7 into the 1st CH of the bandana. Rotate it 100° and SL ST into the first row on the other side. Continue upward with DC 5 and SL ST alternating every other row. The total is 35 shells. Do not cut the yarn.

Making the Bandana Wider When Needed

The pattern includes a useful adjustment for crocheters whose tension is tighter than the designer’s. If you want the bandana to finish wider, you can use CH 4 instead of CH 3 between HDC3PUFFs. You can also use CH 3 instead of CH 2 between the SCs and DCs.

The same concept can be used when adapting the design into a shawl: use the wider chain spacing, make the shell border and SCs on top, and leave out the strings. If your bandana is already finished and seems narrower than you want, the designer suggests tugging at every row to stretch the bandana wider.

There is also a natural asymmetry caused by crochet construction. The bandana may slant slightly to one side. It tends to be slightly wider on the left side for a right-handed crocheter and slightly wider on the right side for a left-handed crocheter. To correct this, the pattern suggests blocking by pinning along the middle and stretching the narrow side as much as possible.

Left-Handed and Right-Handed Guidance

The source provides separate diagrams and photo sequences for right-handed and left-handed crocheters. The stitch instructions themselves remain the reference for the actual counts and construction, while the diagrams help you visualize the direction and placement of the motifs.

If you crochet left-handed, use the left-handed diagram and the left-handed visual sequence to orient the triangular fabric. If you crochet right-handed, the corresponding right-handed diagram and photographs provide the visual reference. The important checkpoints remain the same: keep the beginning CH 3 counting rule in mind, maintain the puff-stitch placement, follow the stated repeat counts, and finish on an odd puff-stitch row.

Adding the Long Ties

The ties are worked after the shell border and are sized according to the main-body size. Each size begins with CH 80, followed by single crochet back along the chain. The second tie is then worked after rotating 180°, and the yarn is fastened off after the final slip stitch.

Size S Ties

CH 80, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SC in 3rd CH of the last puff stitch row, [SC in HDC3PUFF, SC 3 in CH-3 SP, SC in HDC3PUFF, SC in DC]*14, CH 80, rotate 180°, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SL ST into the DC. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Size M Ties

CH 80, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SC in 3rd CH of the last puff stitch row, [SC in HDC3PUFF, SC 3 in CH-3 SP, SC in HDC3PUFF, SC in DC]*16, CH 80, rotate 180°, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SL ST into the DC. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Size L Ties

CH 80, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SC in 3rd CH of the last puff stitch row, [SC in HDC3PUFF, SC 3 in CH-3 SP, SC in HDC3PUFF, SC in DC]*18, CH 80, rotate 180°, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SL ST into the DC. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Stitch Checkpoints That Make This Pattern Easier

• Beginning chain checkpoint: Remember that CH 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a ST, while CH 1 does not.
• Puff checkpoint: HDC3PUFF groups are built from the same stitch, using the exact three-times pull-up sequence.
• Spacing checkpoint: CH 3 between puff stitches does not count as a ST.
• Openwork checkpoint: CH 2 between SC and DC does not count as a ST.
• Size checkpoint: Stop at Row 27 for S, Row 31 for M, or Row 35 for L.
• Border checkpoint: Start the shell border only after finishing an odd-numbered puff-stitch row.
• Bottom-shell checkpoint: Use 7 DC for the bottom shell to follow the written pattern and prevent curling.
• Shell-count checkpoint: The final shell totals are 27 for S, 31 for M, and 35 for L.
• Tie checkpoint: All three sizes use CH 80 for each long tie; the difference is the number of body repeats: 14, 16, or 18.

Common Troubleshooting Without Changing the Pattern

My triangle looks slightly uneven.

A slight sideways slant is expected from the nature of crochet. The source explains that the wider side can depend on whether you are right- or left-handed. Blocking is the recommended way to improve the shape: pin along the middle and stretch the narrower side as much as you can.

My bandana is too narrow.

If your tension is tight, use the source’s wider-spacing option: CH 4 between HDC3PUFFs and CH 3 between SCs and DCs. If the piece is already finished, gently tug at every row to stretch it wider.

The border is curling.

Follow the written border instruction and use DC 7 for the bottom shell. The designer specifically changed the bottom shell from 5 DC to 7 DC to prevent curling. The older demonstration pictures may show 5 DC, so use the written 7-DC instruction as the current reference.

I am unsure when to stop.

Use your earlobe-to-earlobe measurement across the top of the head as the guide. The stated checkpoints are 27 rows for S, 31 rows for M, and 35 rows for L. Remember that the border and shell count are tied to the number of main-body rows.

My video link does not open.

The source notes that its video links have been observed to be clickable when the PDF is opened through the Google Drive PDF reader but not necessarily through Word PDF, so trying a different PDF reader may help if the links do not work properly.

A Practical Workflow for the Whole Project

1. Choose your size using the earlobe-to-earlobe measurement.
2. Prepare one 50 g skein of weight 1 cotton yarn and the 3.5 mm or E-4 hook.
3. Review the US abbreviations and the HDC3PUFF construction.
4. Work the triangular main section, carefully checking the stitch counts after each row.
5. Stop at Row 27 for S, Row 31 for M, or Row 35 for L.
6. Confirm that the final main-body row is an odd puff-stitch row.
7. Rotate the piece 135° and begin the shell border.
8. Use DC 7 for the bottom shell, following the updated written instruction.
9. Continue the opposite side with alternating DC 5 shells and slip stitches.
10. Keep the yarn attached after completing the shell border.
11. Work the size-specific ties using CH 80 at each end.
12. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
13. If necessary, use blocking to improve the slight natural asymmetry.

Final Review Before Wearing

Before considering the Love Puff Bandana complete, compare your work with the visual progression supplied with the pattern. The triangular body should show the repeating puff motifs and open chain spaces, while the shell border should create the scalloped outline around the sides and point. The ties should extend from the upper edge and provide the long fastening sections.

Most importantly, do not judge the project only by whether it looks exactly like a photograph. The source itself explains that yarn thickness and hook size shown in the demonstration material can differ: the thicker yarn and larger hook are for demonstration. The written material specifications remain one 50 g skein of weight 1 cotton yarn and a 3.5 mm or E-4 hook.

Love Puff Bandana Quick Reference

• Pattern name: Love Puff Bandana
• Designer: Silent Bloom Crochet
• Copyright: Original Pattern © 2026 Silent Bloom Crochet
• Yarn: One 50 g skein, weight 1 cotton yarn
• Reference yarn quantity: 170 m or 186 yds per 50 g
• Hook: 3.5 mm or E-4
• Terms: US crochet terms
• Gauge: 15.5 cm or 5.6 inches wide for 19 stitches (row 11) × 9.4 cm or 3.7 inches tall for 11 rows
• Size S: 27 rows, 36 cm or 14 inches, 27 shells
• Size M: 31 rows, 43 cm or 17 inches, 31 shells
• Size L: 35 rows, 50 cm or 20 inches, 35 shells
• Bottom shell: DC 7
• Each tie: CH 80
• HDC3PUFF: YO, insert hook, YO, pull up a loop ×3 into the same stitch, YO, pull through 6 loops, YO, pull through both loops

Conclusion

The Love Puff Bandana combines a simple repeating construction with a striking puff-stitch texture and a scalloped shell finish. Its three size options make it practical for different head measurements, while the pattern’s row-by-row growth allows the crocheter to see exactly how the triangle expands.

The key to a successful result is consistency rather than speed. Keep the beginning-chain rules visible, watch the stitch counts, finish the selected size on the correct odd-numbered puff row, and remember that the written border uses 7 DC for the bottom shell. With those checkpoints in place, the main fabric, shell edge, and long ties fit together as one coordinated construction.

Because the source includes both right-handed and left-handed diagrams and visual progressions, you can choose the reference that matches the way you naturally hold your hook. The finished result is a lightweight, decorative bandana with a lace-like triangular body and a distinctive puff-stitch motif.

Pattern credit: Love Puff Bandana by Silent Bloom Crochet. Finished items may be sold according to the source, with credit to the designer. The original pattern and photographs should not be copied, shared, or reposted.