Love Puff Bandana Crochet Pattern: A Step-by-Step Triangle Head Scarf Guide

The Love Puff Bandana is a delicate triangular crochet head scarf built around a repeating half double crochet 3 puff stitch motif. The construction begins at the point of the triangle, grows outward through alternating puff-stitch and open chain-space rows, and finishes with a decorative shell border and long crochet ties. This first article presents the project as a practical, photo-guided tutorial while keeping the original technical information, stitch counts, sizing points, and construction instructions intact.

The original pattern is credited to Silent Bloom Crochet and is © 2026 Silent Bloom Crochet. The source states that finished items may be sold with credit to the designer, while the pattern itself and its photos should not be copied, shared, or reposted. The images included below are the unique image panels supplied with this project, each used once.

Project Overview

This bandana is designed to be adjustable rather than dependent on a single fixed finished measurement. The pattern provides three main width options based on the number of rows worked: Size S reaches 36 cm or 14 inches, Size M reaches 43 cm or 17 inches, and Size L reaches 50 cm or 20 inches. The measurement to take is from one earlobe, up over the head to the point where you want the flat edge of the bandana to sit, and down to the other earlobe. This measurement determines the width needed, excluding the strings.

The source explains that gauge is not especially important unless you want to follow the stated finished sizes. The listed gauge is 15.5 cm or 5.6 inches wide for 19 stitches at row 11, and 9.4 cm or 3.7 inches tall for 11 rows.

Materials and Crochet Language

• Yarn: One 50 g skein of weight 1 cotton yarn. The reference yarn is 170 m or 186 yds per 50 g.
• Hook: 3.5 mm or E-4.
• Terminology: US crochet terms.

Abbreviations

• YO: yarn over
• ST: stitch
• CH: chain
• CH-3 SP: chain-3 space
• SL ST: slip stitch
• SC: single crochet
• DC: double crochet
• HDC3PUFF: half double crochet 3 puff stitch

The HDC3PUFF is worked as follows: YO, insert hook, YO, pull up a loop, repeated three times into the same stitch; YO, pull through 6 loops; YO, pull through both loops.

Important Pattern Notes Before You Begin

There are several structural details that are worth understanding before starting. The CH 3 at the beginning of a row does count as a stitch on top of the DC in the previous row, so the HDC3PUFF should be made in the next DC. CH 1 does not count as a stitch. CH 3 between puff stitches does not count as a stitch, and CH 2 between SC and DC does not count as a stitch.

The odd rows beginning with row 3 increase with an extra repeat on each odd row. The even rows beginning with row 4 increase with an extra repeat on each even row. Because of this structure, the pattern can be adjusted by subtracting or adding rows in multiples of 2 if you want a smaller or larger size than the listed options. The pattern notes that you should finish with an odd number of rows.

The number of shells in the border matches the number of rows in the main part. The bottom shell was changed from 5 DC to 7 DC to help prevent the border from curling, which explains why some demonstration photographs show 5 DC while the written instruction uses 7 DC.

Making the Triangular Main Section

The main fabric alternates two kinds of rows. Puff-stitch rows build the textured motif, while the intervening rows use DC, SC, and chain spaces to create the open lace structure. The stitch counts supplied in the original pattern are included below exactly so you can use them as checkpoints.

Rows 1–6

Row 1: CH 1+3, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF, DC) all into the 1st CH. Turn. (4)

Row 2: CH 3+1, DC in the DC from the previous row, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in the 3rd CH from the previous row. Turn. (5)

Row 3: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in the DC, DC in the SC]×1, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in the DC, DC in the 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (7)

Row 4: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×1, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (7)

Row 5: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×2, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (10)

Row 6: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×2, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (9)

Rows 7–18

Row 7: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×3, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (13)

Row 8: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×3, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (11)

Row 9: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×4, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (16)

Row 10: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×4, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (13)

Row 11: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×4, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (19)

Row 12: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×4, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (15)

Row 13: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×5, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (22)

Row 14: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×5, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (17)

Row 15: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×6, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (25)

Row 16: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×6, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (19)

Row 17: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×7, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (28)

Row 18: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×7, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (21)

Rows 19–35 and Size Stopping Points

Row 19: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×8, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (31)

Row 20: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×8, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (23)

Row 21: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×9, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (34)

Row 22: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×9, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (25)

Row 23: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×10, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (37)

Row 24: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×10, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (27)

Row 25: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×11, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (40)

Row 26: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×11, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (29)

Row 27: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×12, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Stop here for size S. Turn. (43)

Row 28: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×12, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (31)

Row 29: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×13, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (46)

Row 30: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×13, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (33)

Row 31: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×14, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Stop here for size M. Turn. (49)

Row 32: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×14, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (35)

Row 33: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×15, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (52)

Row 34: CH 3+1, DC in DC, [CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, DC in DC]×15, CH 2, SC in CH-3 SP, CH 2, (DC, CH 1, DC) in 3rd CH from previous row. Turn. (37)

Row 35: CH 3, [(HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF) in DC, DC in SC]×16, (HDC3PUFF, CH 3, HDC3PUFF), DC in 3rd CH from previous row. Stop here for size L. (55)

For a quick size checkpoint, stop after row 27 for Size S, row 31 for Size M, or row 35 for Size L. The corresponding main-part stitch counts are 43, 49, and 55 respectively.

Left-Handed Support

The source includes a dedicated left-handed diagram and a separate row-by-row visual guide. The written stitch instructions remain the same technical pattern, while the diagrams and photographs are arranged to make the visual direction easier to follow for a left-handed crocheter.

Width, Tension, and Blocking Notes

If you have tight tension and do not want the bandana to become too narrow, the source suggests using CH 4 instead of CH 3 between HDC3PUFFs, and CH 3 instead of CH 2 between the SCs and DCs. The same idea can be used when making a shawl: work the shell border and SCs along the top but leave out the strings.

If the bandana is already finished, you can tug gently at every row to stretch it wider. The pattern also notes that crochet naturally causes the bandana to slant more toward one side: it may be slightly wider on the left side for a right-handed crocheter, or wider on the right side for a left-handed crocheter. To correct this, block the bandana by pinning along the middle and stretching the narrower side as much as possible.

Shell Border: Turning the Triangle Into a Finished Edge

Before beginning the shell border, rotate the bandana 135° so you can crochet along the side. Make sure the main section has an odd number of rows; in other words, you should have finished on a puff-stitch row. The shell border alternates DC shells and SL ST connections along both sides, then uses a 7-DC shell at the bottom.

Size S Shell Border

Side 1: DC 5 in the same ST you ended the puff stitch row on, which is the 3rd CH in the top of row 26. Then work [SL ST into the next row, at the top of the DC, DC 5 in the row after that, at the 3rd CH] ×12 repeats. SL ST into the top of row 1, at the top of the DC.

Bottom: DC 7 into the 1st CH of the bandana.

Side 2: Rotate it 100° and SL ST into the first row on the other side. Continue upward in the same way with DC 5 and SL ST alternating every other row. You should end with 27 shells in total. Do not cut the yarn.

Size M Shell Border

Side 1: DC 5 in the same ST you ended the puff stitch row on, which is the 3rd CH in the top of row 30. Then work [SL ST into the next row, at the top of the DC, DC 5 in the row after that, at the 3rd CH] ×14 repeats. SL ST into the top of row 1, at the top of the DC.

Bottom: DC 7 into the 1st CH of the bandana.

Side 2: Rotate it 100° and SL ST into the first row on the other side. Continue upward in the same way with DC 5 and SL ST alternating every other row. You should have 31 shells in total. Do not cut the yarn.

Size L Shell Border

Side 1: DC 5 in the same ST you ended the puff stitch row on, which is the 3rd CH in the top of row 34. Then work [SL ST into the next row, at the top of the DC, DC 5 in the row after that, at the 3rd CH] ×16 repeats. SL ST into the top of row 1, at the top of the DC.

Bottom: DC 7 into the 1st CH of the bandana.

Side 2: Rotate it 100° and SL ST into the first row on the other side. Continue upward in the same way with DC 5 and SL ST alternating every other row. You should have 35 shells in total. Do not cut the yarn.

Adding the Ties

The ties are worked after the shell border without cutting the yarn. The same CH 80 opening is used for all three sizes; the difference is the number of repeats worked across the top edge.

Size S Ties

CH 80, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SC in 3rd CH of the last puff stitch row, [SC in HDC3PUFF, SC 3 in CH-3 SP, SC in HDC3PUFF, SC in DC]×14, CH 80, rotate 180°, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SL ST into the DC. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Size M Ties

CH 80, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SC in 3rd CH of the last puff stitch row, [SC in HDC3PUFF, SC 3 in CH-3 SP, SC in HDC3PUFF, SC in DC]×16, CH 80, rotate 180°, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SL ST into the DC. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Size L Ties

CH 80, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SC in 3rd CH of the last puff stitch row, [SC in HDC3PUFF, SC 3 in CH-3 SP, SC in HDC3PUFF, SC in DC]×18, CH 80, rotate 180°, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 78, SL ST into the DC. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Beginner-Friendly Checkpoints

• Check that your opening CH 3 is counted as a stitch where the pattern says it counts.
• Remember that CH 1, CH 3 between puff stitches, and CH 2 between SC and DC do not count as stitches.
• On odd rows, look for the puff-stitch motif to expand by one repeat.
• On even rows, look for the open chain-space structure to expand by one repeat.
• Use the listed stitch count at the end of every row as your most reliable checkpoint.
• For the border, make sure the main section ends on an odd-numbered puff row before rotating the work.
• Use 7 DC for the bottom shell as written in the source, even though some photographs show 5 DC.
• Keep the yarn attached after the shell border so the ties can be continued as instructed.

Common Troubleshooting Points

The bandana looks narrower than expected

First check your tension and compare your work with the gauge information. The source specifically says gauge is not super important, but tighter tension can make the finished piece narrower. The pattern’s widening suggestion is CH 4 instead of CH 3 between HDC3PUFFs and CH 3 instead of CH 2 between SCs and DCs.

The triangle seems to lean to one side

This is noted as a natural feature of crochet construction. A right-handed crocheter may produce a bandana slightly wider on the left, while a left-handed crocheter may see the wider side on the right. Blocking can be used to pin along the middle and stretch the narrower side.

The border wants to curl

The written pattern uses 7 DC for the bottom shell because the designer changed it from 5 DC specifically to help prevent curling. Follow the written 7-DC instruction rather than copying the older 5-DC version shown in some photographs.

Quick Size Reference

• Size S: 27 rows for 36 cm or 14 inches; 27 shell border shells; stop the main section at row 27; tie repeat ×14.
• Size M: 31 rows for 43 cm or 17 inches; 31 shell border shells; stop the main section at row 31; tie repeat ×16.
• Size L: 35 rows for 50 cm or 20 inches; 35 shell border shells; stop the main section at row 35; tie repeat ×18.

Video Tutorial Notes

The source includes separate visual support for right-handed and left-handed crocheters, including video tutorials for the early rows, shell border, and ties. The source notes that the thicker yarn and larger hook used in the early-row demonstrations are for demonstration only. For the shell-border video, the source notes that the demonstration uses 5 shells instead of 7 like the photographs, while the written pattern has been changed to 7 DC for the bottom shell to prevent curling.

The source also notes that its video links may be clickable when the PDF is opened through Google Drive’s PDF reader but not necessarily through Word PDF, so a different PDF reader may be needed if a link does not respond.

Final Finishing Checklist

• Confirm that your selected size matches the intended earlobe-to-earlobe measurement.
• Confirm that the main section ends at row 27, 31, or 35 for S, M, or L respectively.
• Confirm that the last main row is an odd-numbered puff-stitch row.
• Complete the correct number of shell repeats for your size.
• Use the 7-DC bottom shell.
• Do not cut the yarn before starting the ties.
• Work the correct CH 80 ties and size-specific repeat count.
• Fasten off and weave in the ends after completing the ties.
• If needed, gently stretch or block the finished bandana to improve width and symmetry.

Conclusion

The Love Puff Bandana combines a compact triangular construction with puff-stitch texture, open chain spaces, a shell border, and simple long ties. Its adjustable row structure makes the project particularly useful when you want to match the finished width to an actual head measurement rather than rely on a single fixed size. The most important part of working the pattern accurately is keeping track of the stitch counts, understanding which chain stitches count as stitches and which do not, and stopping on the correct odd-numbered puff row before beginning the border.

Whether you follow the right-handed or left-handed visual guide, the same technical sequence builds the triangle: puff-stitch rows increase the decorative motif, alternating rows create the open framework, the shell border follows the sides and bottom, and the final CH 80 ties complete the wearable bandana. With the original measurements and row counts kept intact, the result is a lightweight, textured accessory with a distinctly romantic crochet look.

Original Pattern © 2026 Silent Bloom Crochet. The source permits selling finished items made from the pattern with credit to the designer and asks that the pattern itself and its photos not be copied, shared, or reposted.